All Forum Posts by: Curtis J.

There are a ton of calculators for excel if you go to the top tool bar and select tools, and then FilePlace: Free Forms and Files.  

I've seen one what that did what I believe you are looking for pretty simply, and I'm not an excel guru.  None of them are as pretty as the BP ones, but they are free and work.  

A foundation repair could easily cost more than 10k if its bad enough.   With the information you provided no one, not even some one who specializes in them will be able to help you.  You need to get someone local and qualified to look at it.  

Edit to add:  Foundations are not a wise thing to speculate on without any history in repairing them.  Engineers make big bucks doing this because its not as simple as pour some concrete under it or  just jack it up an inch or so. 

Flora Granter That debt wouldn't bother me in least. That still leaves plenty to take care of the bills. Maybe see if he would be comfortable paying the first two or three months to ease your mind. With it being vacant for that long I'd jump on it.

Find out what's been done vs what needs to be done. Then read over your contract. It should state in the contract. Then talk to contractor. If he's not cooperative after that call the oversight for construction in your state and they will be able to advise you from there. Always break projects into at least 3 draws, more for really large projects.

Originally posted by :

@Curtis J. Do you think I'd be able to negotiate the price down on the GC if I know I can get a better rate through a sub? Also I plan to use my own finish materials but the GC can get his own building materials. Would that be an issue too?

 I wouldn't be mad if someone tried.  Answer would be dependent on what history do we have and/or is there likely to be more.   I have no problem giving my clients a good deal, especially if they are going to come back for the next job.   

And might even be able to use your guys if they are good, licensed and willing to put him on their insurance.  Alot of subs are 2/3 of those or less and they must be a 3/3 for me to even consider.

As far finish materials its a case by case basis and highly dependent upon what they are.   Brand new in box and I might warranty it.  If its not brand new in box I have no idea whats been done to it or if its up to par for what I will install.    Buying through normal places my buying power will allow me to get them for less than you can.  Some GCs will add on to the material prices, few wont.  I do, and its usually less than they would pay for it.  

@Jim Brozny 

You're welcome!

 On the adjustments I've recieved it shows everyhting.  That is what you would show your contractor so that he knows what all is exactly being done, atleast paid for by the insurance.  You could certainly block out the pricing, but he will likely have the same program the insurance company uses to price his bid.  So that would be a wash.   

He will likely bill you for your first insurance check upfront or on a draw, and start and complete work from it.  He will then submit to you a full bill to you, the entire amount of insurance claim.  Which you will send, with whatever documentation required, to your insurance.  He will likely expect the next check you recieve from them covering depreciation as well.

While I haven't been on BP very long. I am a member of a couple online forums that have all mostly grown at a rapid rate. Sometimes it's due to economics, politics and varying other reasons. But in the end the internet is the go to place for information. As long as BP continues to be a wealth of accessible knowledge it will be the leader. Start charging and it will be less accessible therefore opening the market to new forums. Just like real estate and most other things. If it's too much at one place people go somewhere else.

GC here. Speaking as to my own experience If you are using licensed quality subs. Mine will likely be cheaper. This comes from me using them frequently and my knowledge of what I want. I am likely to be less of a headache than you. Another problem with a client bringing in their own subs and/or materials is I cannot warranty their work. Nor will I include it on my permit. I am responsible for everything that I happens on the site. Scheduling can be a problem as stated before as well.

Originally posted by @Bob B.:

I would get a recommendation from the insurance company.

I think that some insurance companies will guarantee the work and payment if the work is done by one of their preferred contractors.  Usually there is unseen damages that will need to be negotiated and it's easier to have the contractor deal with the adjuster and keep you out of the loop.

If thats not the case then I would get several bids and pay as you go.

If you want to make sure the job is not finished, pay the contractor up front.

In reference to in bold

Absolutely do not do this.   It's fine to have your contractor deal with the adjuster, if he tells you that you can't RUN.  But know what the insurance is paying to fix.  Far too often I have seen contractors install sub par materials or not do all what of the insurance is paying to be done.  And it can lead to your insurance not covering it when it's damaged again.  They are paying for it to be fixed to what it was or better before the claim.

Ensure you get what your insurance is paying for.  

@Darren Eady

Thanks for your response. We've talked to a couple local banks, don't want to apply until my other house is sold. It seems positive from the conversations we've had. I guess I am a little trigger shy since our only rental was paid off when we started and we had no luck when the wife and I started our LLC's in a different area and were much more liquid financially. Just hoping we're going the right direction.

Thanks for the heads up on WF.  I've despised them for a decade after a car loan screw up.