All Forum Posts by: Ryan Normand

What kind of engineer?

It's impossible to estimate with this level of detail. Replacing the roof will be the most predictable since it's a pretty standard operation. Contact a few roofers in your area and get estimates. 

Replacing all of the plumbing and wiring will both be big ticket items. You're basically looking at a full gut just to give the trades the access they need. Is this really necessary? How old is the house? Is there something wrong with the current systems?

 Ditto on what Bruce said. 

100A isn't very common these days because it's undersized for most modern houses (with the exceptionof sub panels). You probably shouldn't be trying to jam 30 branch circuits on a 100A panel either... that thing will be cooking. That's probably why you can't find anyone who sells them.

@Bruce Woodruff Using a liquid applied sealer crossed my mind too. I've never heard of DragonSkin. Is that similar to Redgard and AquaDefense?

I've got a flooring job coming up in about a week in Flagstaff, AZ. It's about 1600 sf of waterproof LVP with pre-attached underlayment. The subfloor is mostly wood (with a cawl space below it) with the exception of a couple rooms that are slab-on-grade. Other contractors - What are your thoughts on putting a moisture barrier between the subfloor and the LVP? It seems redundant to me, but I've read some forums where people recommend doing it. If so, would you just use 6 mil Visqueen?

I've done a number of smaller flooring jobs here in Phoenix and always put LVP (with pre-attached underlayment) directly over the subfloor. It's never been an issue, but then again we have a very dry climate here. I'm not sure if the climate up in Flagstaff should change the installation technique.

I agree with both of Nathan's points.

Assuming they are both properly waterproofed, there is zero difference between a tub/shower combo and standing shower in this respect. If your contractor says his showers "always" end up leaking, that's a red flag haha.

Regardless of what you choose, ask your contractor how he intends to waterproof it. There are a handful of acceptable methods out there. Make sure he's using one of them and there shouldn't be an issue.

Hi Mike! Feel free to PM me with details. I am a residential general contractor based in Chandler. Happy to chat if you're looking to get some work done.

I'm not a buyer in the Philly area, but since nobody else has answered yet I'll take a shot. These aren't Philly specific, but anyone buying vacant land with the intent of developing should be asking similar questions...

Generic questions: 1) What is the area/neighborhood like? 2) What are comps/rental incomes of similar, finished properties in the area?

Development specific questions: 1) Is it zoned for whatever I want to build there? (single family? multifamily? commercial? etc.) 2) Are there any easements that would impede building? 3) Is the lot large enough to meet local setback requirements? 4) Are roads/utilities nearby? 5) Is new construction cheaper than buying existing and rehabbing in this area?

Hope this helps!

Ditto on the previous two comments. You will need a permit, but some cities allow for a simple "desktop" review for small projects like patio cover enclosures. You'll probably still need a site plan, floor plan, and a couple of elevations. There's usually no need for an architect or engineer on something like this. Either you or your contractor can draw them, but I recommend having your contractor do it since they probably have a better understanding of building codes.

And yes, if you want it to be considered part of the livable space you will also need HVAC and electrical (lights and receps). So add an electrical and mechanical plan if that's the case.

A couple recommendations:

You can't "repaint" a tile tub surround. If you want to redo it, you have to rip it out back to the studs. From there you can either install an acrylic surround as some have suggested (less expensive, but cheaper looking), or you can install new backerboard/waterproofing/tile.

You might have mechanical, plumbing, and/or electrical running above that drop ceiling. Check before you start ripping it out. It'll be a huge pain if you have to relocate that stuff in order to raise the ceiling.