All Forum Posts by: Ryan Normand

What's the cost difference? Usually the downside to any "upgrade" is that it costs more money.

I'm not a roofer by trade, but if I were you I would just choose the cheapest option that effectively vents the attic. A vent is a vent. Most people are not going to notice it unless it's a complete eyesore in a prominent location. 

Look into O'Hagin vents. They make some pretty sleek vents. They look a lot better than the old school whirley birds.

@Christian Requejo It's hard to say at this point in the process. These are questions that you should probably ask your local architect. Again, the numbers I gave you are just a very rough estimate so you can figure out if building is even economically feasible. Your actual build cost will vary.

There isn't a simple answer to the questions you're asking. I'll do my best to give you a summary below, but first, I'll make a recommendation:

Take the numbers @Jeff Copeland and I gave you ($150-$200/SF) and do the calculations to figure out a rough estimate how much it will cost to build this house. I'd recommend using the higher end of that range since it sounds like you want to do some upgrades and you always want to leave yourself a healthy margin for error in construction. Don't forget to add in an additional costs for demolition, plans, and permitting. Do the numbers make sense? Will it be profitable? Is doing a tear-down/new-build cheaper than remodeling what's already there? If the answers are yes, then your next step is to find a local architect and explain your needs and budget to them. They will be able to draft plans for your house (for a fee, of course). Once the plans are complete, get bids from multiple GCs and pick the one you like best. That's basically the construction process in a nutshell.

Now, your questions:

1) Can I be more specific on materials? No, not without writing an entire novel. Windows, doors, paint, cabinets, flooring, trim, countertops, sinks, showers, etc. etc. There are hundreds of options for each. Some are good, some are bad. Do your research before choosing.

2) Do all contractors use the same materials for foundation, structure, framing, etc.? These materials are usually more or less the same and will be dictated more by your design, climate, and local building codes than anything else. More advanced options do exist (Zip Sheathing, engineered lumber, etc.), but unless you're doing a high end custom home you should probably just stick to the basics.

3) How do I translate this to a contractor so that I get what I want and they DON'T charge me an extra $50.00 sqft. and takes advantage? Don't... Translate it to your architect so they design a house that can feasibly be built within your budget, then let the contractors bid on that design. Understand that if you ask for an upgrade, the contractor is going to charge you more money so they can cover the additional labor, materials, and overhead. Kitchens and baths tend to be the most expensive upgrades, too. Remember, contractors are running a business. We're not just here to rip people off.

4) If you were me how can I structure a deal where the contractor does the construction and I hire someone else to do the finishes? Is there a way and is it worth it in your opinion? I've responded to a forum post about this question before. Take this with a grain of salt, but I don't recommend transferring responsibility from GC to owner half way through the build. If you do want to act as owner-builder, make sure you have experience with construction and a network of reliable subcontractors at your disposal. Keep in mind some cities only allow you to be owner-builder for your primary residence.

Yes, "builder grade" is construction lingo for very basic and cheap materials/finishes. It's what production home builders use when they're banging out rows upon rows of houses in a subdivision. That's where the term comes from.

Like you said, cost/sf depends on a lot of factors - location, market, design complexity, finishes, etc.

Generally speaking, I agree with Jeff. Expect to pay $150-$200/sf for a relatively simple, builder grade house. That's based on what I've seen and heard here in AZ, so I'm just assuming FL prices are similar.

I don't have a crystal ball on where building costs are going, but it looks like they're starting to stabilize from the absolute rollercoaster that we've been on for the past 2 years. That does NOT mean prices are going to go down... I think they're going to continue to gradually climb as people adjust to the new costs of labor and materials. But hopefully the days of 400% price increases (looking at you, lumber) are behind us.

What parts of the design do you need an engineer for? Do most architects have an engineer that they work with on every project? Just curious how the roles and responsibilities of the engineer and architect mesh together. 

That was going to be my guess too. I can't really see either, but it's about the right size for a portable AC vent and it would make sense if they're in every bedroom. 

There's a lot to unpack here, but first... Deep breaths... you are going to be fine.

Generally speaking the inspector will limit their scope to whatever is on the permit. If it's a bathroom remodel, they're only going to look at the bathroom. Most houses, especially older ones, are going to have some code violations if you look hard enough. It doesn't make sense for the inspector to open that can of worms on a routine inspection unless there's something that's a clear and present danger to the occupants (like the roof is about to cave in). Based on the issues you described, I don't think you have anything to worry about. 

Second - you were worried about the ventilation in the bathroom. Per the IRC, bathrooms need ventilation via an operable window OR an exhaust fan vented to the outside. You said they already have exhaust fans. This means they do not need an operable window.

I would get in touch with a couple contractors in your area and get bids on the job. They'll be able to give you a better idea of how strict permits and inspections are in your area. I think this will put a lot of your concerns at ease.

As others have noted this is highly dependent on local building codes and your specific lot. Some common things that will limit the size of your building include,  but are not limited to:

1) Setbacks

2) Max lot coverage 

3) Zoning (in case you're thinking of building multiple units or an adu)

4) Easements 

5) Height restrictions

Your city's planning and development department should have info on all of the above. 

If all of the HVAC professionals you've talked to are telling you to do the same thing, then maybe that's a sign you should do that thing. It's probably not a good idea to go against the unanimous recommendation of the professionals just to save a couple bucks. Just sayin'.