All Forum Posts by: Tom W.

Tim McCahill Check the water pressure on your boiler. The standard setting of the pressure reducing feed valve, when the water is cold, is 12 psi. With a 4 story building this pressure setting is not enough to overcome the weight of the 4 story water column in the piping. The pressure will rise as the boiler heats because the water expands but as it cools and the volume of water contracts, it will actually create a vacuum in the piping on the upper floor, causing air to be drawn in through automatic air bleeders. You will need to increase the standing pressure on the boiler at the least. In addition you may need to upgrade the expansion tank to accommodate the extra volume of water.

Pete Peters This is an industry wide problem that is affecting all manufacturers, not just Goodman. Both Trane and Carrier have published papers on the problem and there are currently lawsuits against many of the manufacturers. The problem is related to the higher efficiency standards that have been mandated by the federal government. In an effort to increase efficiency, the walls of the copper tubing used in the coils have been "rifled" on the inside like the barrel of a gun. This gives the tube more surface area to transfer heat but it also causes portions of the tubing to become thinner. Contaminants in the air in our homes and buildings from household cleaners to hairsprays and everything in between have a tendency to react with and oxidize the copper used in air conditioning coils. Since the copper tubes are now thinner and the refrigerant pressures in all new systems run much higher than it used to, failure rates have risen dramatically. Many manufacturers have started switching to using all aluminum coils to fight the problem.

@Rick T.

You may have a tough time finding a replacement if you're doing this as a DIY. Lennox typically only sells to their licensed dealers. You may find a local Lennox dealer in your area who will sell it to you direct, if it is still an available part. 

@Michael Craig

Start with basics first before throwing money at a problem that may be a simple fix. 

First, check your boiler's operating temperature. To get the maximum BTU output from your baseboard heaters, your boiler should be producing 180 - 200 degree water temperature. If not, turn up the high limit control. Go no higher than 200 to prevent creating steam.

Second, make sure that all of the baseboard heat has sufficient airflow through the fins. This means you need to make sure that the dampers at the top opening of the enclosures are open, if you have them. Your also need to make sure that the bottom openings are clear. I have very often seen new carpeting installed that blocks half of the bottom opening. Reduced airflow through the baseboard means reduced heat into the room. Also make sure the fins are clear. Dirt and debris can accumulate inside the baseboard over the years.

Third, check the total linear footage of baseboard in the space. The average BTU output of standard baseboard is 500 BTU's per foot of fin. Multiply your total footage by 500 to get the total BTU output to the space at 180 degree water temperature. Next calculate the square footage of your space. A very rough rule of thumb is that you should have 30 - 50 BTU's per square foot depending on how well constructed and insulated the space is. 

It drives me a little crazy when people are surprised that permits are needed to perform work on their property. As @Michael Gessner mentioned, just about everything outside of simple cosmetic work on a property requires permits. The only reason people have work done, or contractors do work, without pulling permits, is to save money. You will read a lot of complaints about substandard contractors or people complaining that they can't find a good contractor. When your highest priority is that the contractor has to come in with the lowest price, you are more than likely going to find one who is avoiding the permit process. No permits + no inspections = cut corners. The contractor can not pull the permit unless he is properly licensed and he has to do the job right because it's going to be inspected. Expect to pay more because it's going to take more of his time. The "pay me now or pay me later" rule applies here.

Mark Smith It’s very unlikely that your system is a 750mv system. In all of the years that I have been doing HVAC work I can count on one hand the number of these systems I have come across. Millivolt (MV) systems are designated as such because they operate off of a very low voltage that is generated by a standing pilot light on a millivolt generator. These systems are dinosaurs and most have gone by the wayside long ago. Standing pilot systems are a thing of the past because the energy codes have done away with those and the majority of standing pilot systems are 24 volt systems. You stand a better chance of becoming a millionaire playing the lottery than finding a millivolt system.

Jane Blake Despite the earlier answer you received here, It is highly unlikely that HVAC work would not require a permit to be pulled. It may be that your contractor doesn’t want the hassle of dealing with the inspector but that doesn’t mean it isn’t required by law. Typically it is the town, not the county, that issues permits. A quick google search for your town shows that all of the necessary permit forms and fee schedules, including HVAC work, are listed there.

Bob Smith There are thermostats that can be used with remote sensors but that may not be the solution you are looking for. A lot will depend on the type of heating system you have. Is it forced air, hot water or steam? Each will have different solutions. If you can provide more info I may be able to give you a better answer.

@Marc Izquierdo

Just an FYI - I don't want to sound like Chicken Little and warn that the sky is falling but having 40 years experience in the HVAC business means I have to speak up. A furnace operating without return ductwork attached is not only a code violation, it is a life safety hazard. Without a return duct attached, instead of the air being drawn back from the space it is being delivered to, it is being pulled from the furnace room itself. This creates a very real possibility of carbon monoxide being pulled out of the furnace and delivered straight into the living space. 

You mentioned this was a duplex but you did not specify if this was the only furnace for the building. If it is the only unit, then to properly repair the situation a return duct will have to be run to each of the tenant spaces for the system to operate properly. Couple this with the fact that the furnace is too big and will probably need replacement and you could be looking at well over $5000.00 to make this right.

There is no way this seller is getting this HVAC system certified by a reputable contractor. I would recommend being prepared to walk away from this deal if he either does not agree to make the repairs himself or offer to reduce price to cover your costs. In any event this problem will have to be taken care of or the possibility exists that people will die.

@ Diane G. 30 years for a warm air furnace is old. If it's a hot water boiler it's still up there but boilers tend to last longer. The question about whether to replace now or wait another season is always a tough one. Heating systems never fail when they aren't needed. They always go when needed most because that's when they are being pushed the hardest. I typically advise customers to be proactive and replace before the equipment fails. This gives you the ability to shop around for the best contractor and best price. If you wait until the equipment fails and replace under emergency conditions your options are cut drastically and you will almost certainly pay a higher price.