All Forum Posts by: Bill Brown

I think it depends on the conditions of the house as to whether or not you should put a VB under the flooring. If moisture can permeate up into the flooring, then probably yes. If a concrete slab already has moisture control under it, then you shouldn't need another layer under the flooring. I would say it seems like a good idea to put it over a crawl space without any moisture control. Sandwiching materials between moisture barriers would be a bad idea generally. And like @Mike Dmuchoski said, the manufacturer has the final word if you want protection with their warranty.

I've had different experiences with scratch resistance from different manufacturers. The stuff we used in our last project (Lifeproof) seems pretty nice so far. The finishes seem to vary quite a bit between brands. We bought some Lumber Liquidators flooring for the same project and sent it back because it felt like fine sandpaper.

The worst thing to me is subfloor prep. If you're following manufacturer specs, you really need to get it FLAT. That can be a lot of work/ material/ time.

Hey @Michael Shenouda, what part of the city are you in and where are you interested in investing? I'm new to investing, but not new to the REI concept. I went through analysis paralysis for a couple years thinking I was just gathering information. What helped me get started was talking to other investors that were a step or 2 ahead of me. Reach out to folks like you're doing and you might get started sooner than you think. Good luck!

I used to be kind of a coffee snob and I am not aware of k cups or similar that produce quality coffee. Personally, I do not drink them. But I would expect them in a smaller Bnb, and wouldn't hold it against the host.

If you're hosting more than 2 guests, I recommend getting a Mr. Coffee drip pot or similar. People that need the best coffee won't expect it at their Bnb, they will go find it at a specialty shop. I would NOT recommend a grinder or anything like that, because they require maintenance and cleaning. Just keep it simple and intuitive. People will get annoyed if they can't figure out how to make coffee quickly. Whatever you get, I recommend replacing it every year or so when they get funky.

I hired an abatement company to remove flooring in a couple locations in a house.  I got half a dozen bids, but eventually found a fair price.  It really wasn't that much money.  If your samples come back positive, just start calling folks.  I used a list of certified abatement contractors from a county website.  Maybe your area has something similar?

Agree with @Matt Dingus.  I spoke the the city about the landlord registration/ occupancy inspections that are being talked about, but it seemed that no one was sure if it was actually going to go through. Don't know if things have changed yet. 

I've been interested in a few multi's in the city that were being rented illegally. I think it is pretty common in some areas, and the city wasn't able to tell me what, if any, penalties they impose if you were caught renting an illegal unit. I recommend calling some city offices pretending you are in the market for an illegal multi and asking hypotheticals.

I would look into the STR idea, considering regulations on those are also gray right now. I also agree that it would have been ideal for you agent to catch that.

I would be surprised if all that mold is from a shower. Maybe there is a roof leak? Either way, it's probably going to be much worse behind the walls. Doesn't mean it won't be straightforward to remediate though. Talking to pros would be the best thing to do.

If we are talking about physically living in the property while working on it, then dust containment was our (my wife's) biggest frustration.  You can limit the spread of bulk dirt and debris but it's impossible to stop the fine particles from finding their way into every closet, space, and surface in the house.

West System Epoxy is a marine grade two part epoxy that would be my choice.  You'd want to get one of the fillers (probably a low strength one) that are available to mix with it to make it more workable and sandable. You'll have to research which one would make sense for you, and make sure you learn how the stuff works before you use it too.  You can mix it as thin or as thick as you like, but only have so much of a window to work with it.  If you mix a large batch, spread it out in a container to give it more working time.

 I wouldn't recommend wasting your time with filling with any product if the wood is soft and rotted.

I would test it to be on the safe side.  Especially since you asked in an online forum.  I like to know what I'm dealing with.  And yes, you would have to get professionals to abate, but get a bunch of prices.  I had some done for a fair price after calling like 10 companies.  Old linoleum type tiles are common carriers, ceiling tiles, mastic, plaster, plaster board.  I've dealt with the stuff myself as well, but if its going to be messy, its worth paying for.

It certainly looks like red oak.  White oak doesn't usually have color variation like that.  As far as getting an even look, that will depend on the stain, but I doubt you're going to get an even look.  Some boards are flat sawn, some rift sawn and quarter sawn.  And some of the lighter streaks look like sapwood.  Stain will probably take differently on each one no matter what oak it is.  A good finisher should have ideas on how to get an even look, but you may have to lower your expectations.