I also don't see a survey charge on there.

HI BP,I’m a relatively new investor (have 2 units/ under contract on 6 units) and wanted to survey those seasoned landlords out there: When checking out a Buy/Hold property, what are your “deal breakers” that you avoid?

I've not heard this yet. i've only heard fannie saying they'll allow an easier conversion of your primary residence to an investment property.If you've bought a rental home within the year, before you've claimed them on your tax returns, Fannie lets you use 75% of the market rents on the rental market survey with the appraisal.

A rent survey would give you some idea about the viability of holding this for cashflow.

Alta Survey? 

Waiting on the as-built surveys for my current properties and a ALTA survey  to get done on the the land. 

@Dawn Young - Sorry for all the posts but I wanted to add to your list of possible expenses:Engineering Fees, survey, local entity's application fees for development, building permits, parking lot paving (some areas require pavement rather than gravel), stormwater permit fees, stormwater ponds (the design is included in the engineering fees), underlying soil corrections if your property is on peat-y soils or poorly drained land, wetland delineation, building structure engineering, worker's comp insurance if you hire someone (probably not in this scenario), legal fees for an attorney to write/review your lease, legal fees for attorney to guide you through the process of eviction (often called a 'lien sale' in SS circles), landscaping buffers (yes, I've had to install trees to buffer vehicular traffic - that reminds me, one of those trees are dead and I need to replace it. 

do we need to do a survey to make sure the easement is at the right scope and place?

I have every thing in place including appraisal, insurance, loan and survey. 

For even more accuracy, we choose to only use comps that are 1/3 mile away or less, with sales dates within the last six months.Sometimes, even the street can make a difference in the value of a property.If the only comps you have are on very nice streets, but the house you’re considering is on a very “distressed” street, then you have to reduce the ARV.How much is an appropriate reduction is a judgment call on your part.You’ll want to base that call on how much of a discount will be necessary to entice the final owner/occupant to buy this property over one they can get on the “better” street.If the comparable sale that you are using is too different from the subject property, then it is of little value.If you use it in your sales marketing, you’ll lose credibility with your Investor Buyers.An example of a poor comparable is when your subject property is an old cottage fixer-upper, and you compare it to the sale of a brand new in-fill (an in-fill is a new house built on a vacant lot in an otherwise established neighborhood).Rehab dollars vary according to level and detail of the job – everyone has a different formula.As a wholesaler, we suggest a middle-of-the-road approach for estimating enough rehab dollars to get the subject property to look like the comps.You’ll need to spend more on rehab as the ARV increases.Logically,buyers like more ‘pretty-ness’, higher-end fixtures, cabinets, etc. when they’re paying $200,000 vs. when they’re only paying $100,000 for a house.Buy/Sell/Hold costs are all of the costs associated with:üThe purchase (loan origination fees, title insurance, attorney fees, survey, appraisals, etc);üThe sale (real estate agent commissions, marketing and advertising, closing costs paid by the Seller); and üHolding the property (mortgage interest, utilities, taxes, insurance, etc.).