Assuming the floor is reasonably true thicker is better as it will have less deflection, and deflection is what's going to wear out/break your locking mechanism. 1/2" thick LVP is a pretty good thickness as most brands are about 6-8 millimeters thick (about 1/4").

For a GC/carpenter, the highest‑leverage play is value‑add buy‑and‑hold using BRRRR or a light hybrid: buy dated but solid properties, do targeted cosmetic/mechanical upgrades you can execute fast, place a quality tenant, then refinance and recycle capital .

Include main drain camera and foundation/roof/mechanicals as needed and environmental for commercial.Step 3.

Say your a mechanic and guy from another country calls you  and says they’re working on their car.

**Risk & control mechanics:**     In your JVs, how do you usually handle:   - Voting / veto rights for the landowner (sale, refi, major deviations from plan)     - Guarantees and completion risk (developer vs. land side)     - Protecting the landowner if the project stalls, market shifts, or costs blow up?

The goal is speed + recycling capital, not hitting a “perfect product” on Day 1.A house doesn’t need to be fully modernized to get a strong appraisal, especially if structural, mechanical, and cosmetic basics are already improved.3.

They are more commonly full guts with major mechanical reworks.  

Lastly having reserves for repairs or anything mechanical wise is good.

Be proactive on mechanical inspections. 

Fire ratings, STC ratings, sprinkler systems, air barrier testing, and costlier mechanical systems—much of it driven by regulatory changes—are all at all-time highs.