@Bryan Mitchell thanks for shout out.
@Tyler Hardy
$30,000 an acre isn't to much. Run your numbers, the difference between $30,000; $20,000; $15,000 per acre over 25 or 30 years isn't much.
Bigger pockets doesnt allow Excel attachments, so I will just past below. Format might not come across.
CONSIDERATIONS FOR RV OR
VEHICLE STORAGE
A. Pull through- The front, pull as far forward as
possible, gives the person next to you an easier angle to turn into,
from behind you. Align your front with the fronts of all other
vehicles. Be courteous and leave enough room on the Driver side, so
that RV can open their doors.
B. Back to back parking- our locations are set up at
60 degree parking. Also, they are setup for the driver to back in on
their side, so they can use the lot next to them for alignment. This
way you only have one blind side on the right side backing in.
Otherwise you have two blind sides.
We have 20/30/40 foot parking at our location at 26763 Highway 34,
Glenwood, IA. Each size has a different width due to how hard it is
to park a longer unit at the very front angle of their turn in.
20’s- 10 wide; 30’s- 12 wide; 40’s- 15 wide. Although you
could park an RV in any of these sizes, it is easier with a wider
width to make the “front” turn. Or ask for an end parking spot,
so you are doing a 90 degree parking, but have the whole drive way to
back in with, without a turn.
C. Canopy- same issues as others, depending on if 60
degree or 90 degree parking.
D. Enclosed- Really a matter of width and depth.
Keep in mind all measurements for storage are relative. For example:
A 10 wide x 20 deep x 8 tall unit, with studs, roll up door and door
jambs; is really 9 wide x 19 ft 6 inch deep x 7 ½ foot tall. Also
if you have a 20 ft boat or Camper, its really 22/23/24 ft depending
on Propeller, bumper or front hitch.
E. Surface- Rock or hard surface (concrete/asphalt);
If on rock/asphalt put your tongue leg or stabilizer pads on wider
pads to spread the weight out. These pads are needed on Asphalt
since in hot weather they will sink into the asphalt.
F. Pest control- we put mouse bait out along the fence
lines and under the units, mow excess weeds and grass. You should
put both rodent and bug control in your unit. Dispose of all food
sources, for long term storage. If you want to be really diligent
with pest control, don’t park next to overhead lights. They
attract bugs at night and then mice underneath. Put scented drier
sheets in all compartments and rooms. Open all cabinets and doors.
G. Stabilizers- if doing long term storage put you
stabilizers down. Most parking is in an open area and the units can
rock and move with the wind. This will also help with taking
pressure off your tires so they last longer.
H. Security- Put a lock on the hitch. Although you
are in a secure location, RV’s and trailers are the easiest storage
to break into or take without notice. Recommend you put in motion
sensors or GPS tracking security. Check your vehicle at least twice
a month. Most Security systems only maintain footage for 2 weeks due
to camera memory capacity.
I. Propane Fuel Tanks- disconnect and store if
leaving for long term storage.
J. Electronic Lifts- disconnect the battery if leaving
for long term storage.
K. Insurance- most storage unit insurance policies do
not cover vehicles. Keep your insurance, just have them adjust your
automobile to fewer miles or just comprehensive
coverage. Wind, Flood, tornado, Hail, or third party damage or theft
can still occur. Traditional insurance coverage, RV’s
normally stay a flat rate throughout the year, thus you will still
need to maintain full coverage. Or, if you seek out a specific RV or
rec vehicle insurance company, you can move in and out of
winterization rates.
L. Pricing- use a 30 foot vehicle as an example:
-In the country about a $1 per foot on rock.
-With Paved access and parking spot, this might run $60 to $90
- Enclosed parking this will cost about $120 to $170 for a 30 foot.
- Enclosed parking for a 50 foot, might cost $225 to $350.
The price extremes are the cost of the concrete/asphalt road and the
storage bay. Also the longer the unit the price goes up
significantly because it takes more driveway width to park and the
type of door changes in both size and type (remote operated). A 50
ft RV will require about a 70 foot wide driveway to back in.
We are only addressing the long term Parking portion of storage.
Other items are specific to each vehicle such as water clean out,
Tire/window shades, etc.
Quick non Parking list:
Wheel/tire covers; Vehicle cover.
Remove and store your tires.
Store with a full fuel tank to prevent condensation
Add fuel stabilizers
Place RV completely off the ground to prevent flat spots on your
tires, if left for a long time.
Cover your HVAC, skylights, vents and windows to prevent exposure to
sun and breakdown.
Boats leave your plug out, whether covered or not.
PROJECT ESTIMATION
TEMPLATE
Whether I am building or buying a location, I always run the
Estimation template to dial in whether I can or should do the
project. Each of us will have our own Payback, CAP rates, cash flow
models and Tax implications thresholds; I am not covering that. This
is a back of the napkin estimation, just on a spreadsheet.
We are in 8 locations and 5 towns; and we have used this approach to
determine upfront whether to invest or not. Six of the locations are
in towns of less than 5,000. Two of the locations are in a 1mm metro
area (630 and 330 units). We will have built 47 buildings once we
complete these last two sites.
This project list is for outside Storage and for the locations/cities
we have looked at. Own the thought process. Example: HVAC, Fire
Sprinklers, Facade, frost free footings, Storm retention ponds, road
type, fire hydrants, etc. These and others, are the items that will
hurt you, if you don’t own your knowledge. This spreadsheet is not
all encompassing. For example on this project, I was “done
with the spreadsheet”. I missed that there is a “Wet”
spot in the middle. We will need to put in a $30,000 drain tile not
reflected in my estimate. Still learning. You might want to put a
SWAG factor (5%) in, up front.
Fill in the green areas. For the building quote, get one in your
local area. This should represent the Building material, concrete
base, and erection all delivered on site.
Side notes:
A. You can also use this template in reverse without knowing your
site. Leave the “Land” amount blank and plug numbers in. This
will give you a range of how much you can pay for the Land.
B. How many buildings should you build Phase One? I always have my
first set of buildings pay off all of the land, fencing, initial
ground/electrical/plumbing work. We use a 65% break even factor.
This is a Cash flow estimate of how many of the units need to be
filled to cover all expenses (except Depreciation) plus
Principal/Interest payments. Although this is a little Chicken and
Egg, or Circular logic. If you need 150 units to pay these costs,
then add 80 more units for a total of 230. 230= 150 divided by 65%.
Your building/road layout might dictate you build 240 or 204, then
that is what you build. We never want to build just enough units
(65%). The most depressing (counter intuitive) time for a storage
owner is when you hit 90%; you have to decide if you build another
building.
C. Phase 2, you will find your break even is around 35%. This is
where the money starts to roll and your occupancy rate risk starts to
decline.
See spreadsheet on our website (ClarkstorageLLC). Where ever it says
spreadsheet, then hit the open button at the bottom. Change it and
adapt it to your needs.
Again, don’t Trust anything I tell or give you. Own your info and
data. Anything in the Storage Business can be validated.
Start
small and make your big mistakes early.
