All Forum Posts by: David Handel

Having a sheen accentuates imperfection in surfaces.  Because ceilings are overhead, the drywall work usually isn't as well done as walls, so flat is usually the way to go there.  Flat does a better job at hiding waves in the drywall or nail pops that can happen.

Walls would be fine with either flat or eggshell.  If the drywall work isn't as good as it could be, flat might be a better choice.

For bare block you will want to use a block filler versus an all purpose primer.  I am a bit biased toward using PPG products like their 6-7 (http://www.ppgpaints.com/products/interior-exterio...) or 6-15 (http://www.ppgpaints.com/products/interior-exterio...).

The block is very porous, and these products are thick enough to fil it in and give you a sealed surface.  Using the wrong primer on block will not seal it up, and the following coats will continue to soak in like a sponge.  Once it is sealed, top coat it with a good quality exterior paint.  

The PPG Paints store in Wooster will be able to get you all set up.

What is the finish of your top coat?  

Drywall is easy to adhere to, so getting it to stick is not an issue.  The bigger issue I see is when you are using a sheen other than flat.  

When someone puts a higher sheen (eggshell, satin, etc.) it shows more imperfections in the wall.  The evenness of the sheen also becomes much more apparent.  A primer will give you better enamel holdout, meaning it will do a better job of promoting the sheen on the topcoat.  

Who hasn't been in this situation... You patched a spot on wall and got it feathered in perfectly.  It hasn't been that long since the wall was painted, so you save a step by putting a coat of eggshell across the whole wall.  You come back after it has had ample time to dry and still see the patched spot after top coat?  The resin of the coating sucks into the more porous areas and sits on top of the sealed areas, leaving a dull spot where your repair was made.  I've seen the same thing happen with P&P in one.  

Paint and primer are made to do separate jobs.  If a product is made to be a killer finish, it probably isn't that great of a primer and vice versa.  As stated earlier in the thread, primer is less costly than finish paint and you have the same labor and material quantity 2 coating with the paint or priming and top coating.  It makes more sense to use an actual primer.

I will speak in generalities for the most part, since availability of products can be limited based on your location.  A commercial product will usually spray better than a residential product.   When the paint manufacturer formulates the product, they factor in application techniques.  

Higher end residential products will usually have a thicker viscosity and have been designed  to be brushed and rolled.  These are designed to give a better looking finish, on smaller jobs (a few rooms, a whole house, etc.).

Commercial products are usually formulated for spray application, because they are designed with a more production-oriented job in mind (apartments, hotels, commercial offices, etc.).  When brushing and rolling these products, they can be (sometimes) harder to work with- they don't lay out as smooth, drag when you try to cut in corners, etc.

Also the spray equipment that you use can affect your finish.  A good quality airless paint sprayer would be the way to go.  

@Sue Matt I would recommend that you visit one of the PPG Paints stores in the Baltimore area for product selection.  The commercial product that I sell for most investors is the Speedhide Zero line.  It is a solid performer that does pretty well whether you spray it or brush and roll it.

I am a paint store manager, so I will share my opinion.  Be honest with your paint store and loyalty can be rewarded.  Tell them how much painting you have planned, how many properties you have as rentals, how many flips you do per year, etc.  If they decide to help you out by lowering the price, realize that they have to try to make up profit on volume.  

My store is a sponsor for the local REIA. We offer aggressive pricing for members. Most of the members around here either rehab and flip or they buy and hold, both will need paint!

The folks at the store are in the people business, just like you are.  How you approach the subject can (positively or negatively) affect your outcome.  If you are going to try to negotiate pricing, please do it appropriately.  Ask to speak to the manager in private, rather than make a scene in front of 10 other customers in line that might be satisfied with the price you are not happy with.  Just like everything else in life, try to make it a win/win situation for all involved.

You should come to the Madison REIA meeting on Monday night. There are a lot of like-minded people looking to help each other succeed.

Hope to meet you then.

Dave

What color are you going to paint it?  

Make sure you don't go super dark over that white siding.  As weird as it sounds, the darker color can absorb more heat from the sun.  This can cause additional expansion and contraction of the siding and warping of the metal.

As long as the exterior is in good shape, a good cleaning can make a world of difference.

Come out to the Madison REIA on Monday night. I'd love to meet you. For details visit http://madisonreia.com.