All Forum Posts by: Don Meinke

That sounds like an easy do it yourself project.  One tip tp get a pipe joint to turn where you want it to is,,,,,,take 2--- 2 pound hammers and copiously tap from both sides at once.  Don't hit so hard you crush it, but a good measured tap as far around as you can Try it and if its still tight hammer a bit more a little harder.  NEVER failed to get a pipe fitting apart that way. Their has to be a union someplace and that comes off first

Give that good tenant a good supply of Copper Sulfate AND a stern lecture on what goes and no goes in the toidy.  He can flush 1/2 a cup full of CS once a month as he is leaving for the day.  Tree roots can come from 100 feet or more seeking moisture.  That's what everything gets hung up on.

And yes, if you get another clog there a camera look is in order.

If there is ANY possible way it is caused by tree roots, have him put the power rooter on it with the knife sections that scrape the walls.  when it cuts thru the roots your problems are gone for a few years till the roots grow back.  IF he jams a snake thru it and gets it to drain today you might be right back at it next week.

Copper sulfate can keep the roots at bay.  A blue crystal you dissolve  and let it set as long as you can.  Like couple days if tenants are going out of town etc.

No question on this one.  You HAVE to get the water away ASAP first.  Is it going to cure 100%. NO. The encap isn't either.  When you grade make sure the ground level at foundation is 4-6" higher than 2 foot out.  Really slope it up because time will sink fast enough.  another 6" in the next 6 ' and so on at least 30' from house and then no puddles or lakes EVER when it rains, everything should be 'running' not standing.  You WILL be surprised how much drier the crawl will be,,,but you always have moisture wicking up from the ground.  YOU can install most of the stuff they are quoting way too much for.  Seal the gaps and edges, make sure floor is levelish and free of sharp objects and debris every crawl has collected

All in for everything, grading and plastic and sealant your looking at 500 bucks or LESS if you do it yourself and have a few tools and few hours of time.

My kid had an estimate from a kitchen remodeler. The kitchen, which is small, to remodel and remove short non bearing wall, cabinets, counters and sink,,, estimate came to 40 to 45 K.  Looks like your 20 K is gone in a BIG hurry.

Do you have pics of what your starting with?

On baths I think it is easiest to gut to the studs and start over,,, but that is just me.  As long as you have another bath room to use while it is down.  I use cement board under all tile.  That yellow smart board under paint and purple sheet rock for ceiling (so it never supports internal mold spores

I have even used older cast iron tubs people have thrown away cause they were stained from water etc.  As long as it isn't rusted and popped porcelain.

The electrical needs an upgrade as well as all metal pipes.  IF pex is allowed there, its an easy do it yourself job.  Hopefully this house has a basement to make replacement wiring and plumbing easier.

Is the kitchen THAT bad that new countertops and sink wouldn't fix?  Painting is a last resort for me.  I rather see wood grain but that's the old in me.  Check out replacing the door and drawer fronts.  Refinishing the frame rails is pretty do able.  SOME old cabinets are 300% better than the pressed wood they have now.  The press wood gets wet from a leak and it expands and separates it.

The support beam is all temp support on both sides, tear out and put oversized for load and span beam back in.  What's above that it supports?  Just the roof or 2 or 3 more stories of house?

The key question is," how is the outside slope against the foundation, every portion of it?  Has it settled and allowing moisture in the 2' closest?"

  It LOOKS like the outside had excess moisture which froze and expands the soil pushing the wall in.  Freezing and thawing continues the evil forces of nature vs. foundations.  Exaggerated fill (6 inches higher on wall than out 2 ') usually keeps this area dry enough not to continue.  Then application of what they used to call "Surewall" in the old days.  It is white white in color and has fiber strands  to hold it together in a back-plaster type application both inside and outside does wonders to repair minor damage.  IF their is still excess water to deal with drain tile and rock is best method to remove along with a sump pump if needed

My thoughts are not necessarily in order. But a total 'look' would be in order.  Usually there is a puddle that spread and fueled a larger area to be too wet due to defective gutter and downspout issues AND backfill settling over 30-50 years.

So if your cutting with a circle saw or angle grinder how do you cut the corners that the circle doesn't get?

  So your sink corners are square vs rounded?

And by saying cutting backwards you mean pulling the saw towards you vs pushing it down the line (as in sawing wood)?

  There are NO slab sellers in our town.  Menards 'used to sell' some but don't any more.  They sell quartz , is that harder to cut etc.?  But it is priced like 30 to 50 bucks a square foot.

  The ONE place that only does full service is talking 3K for 8 1/2 foot and a 1 foot piece with a sink cut out of the 8 1/2 piece.  That's nuts price wise.  

I would have ZERO idea what you would claim as a covered event with your insurance company.  IF they find out about it could lead to getting policy cancelled.  Just be triple glad no one got hurt, and this obvious  structural  defect showed up this way.  MOST crawl space issues regarding these issues come from builder assuming it is dry and will always stay dry.  Rain for extended periods or broken pipes and wet soil the support sinks in the mud and sags start and trauma finishs it

I have seen lumber twist, split, fail, and turn worthless in a building.  If you gut one to the studs many replacements are necessary.

Count your lucky stars and fix it properly and let it go.  There will be plenty of blame to go around if you push it to legal circles.  And your frustrations will outweigh the gain.  IF they did it on purpose its one thing but they didn't.  Its  just a cost of renting to anyone.  If the header was cracked and weakened years ago from moving a piano over this area with 3-400 pound movers.  Can you PROVE that didn't happen?  Or some previous party that weakened it?

To many variables to address.   Forget it and move on (after repairs)

Do these houses have basements?  Do they have PVC drain pipes?  Can you use pex water supply there?  Does the wires all have breakers in the box?  Does it have Federal Pacific fire hazard boxes?  Are ALL outlets and wiring the modern  3 wire with all 3 same size?  ALL questions to ponder.  You can fix most of this at the first major reno but nice if already done (PROPERLY).  Outlets everywhere cuts down on fire hazard extension cords.  Metal supply or drains are probably on borrowed time.  Wooden windows, single pane, leak and cost energy.