All Forum Posts by: Elizabeth Zieman

Hey Nutmeg'ers:

Just wanted to note there is an upcoming meetup in Torrington, CT on 11/9.  If you look on the Networking page, you'll see it.  Not sure if I myself will make it, but it always great to have that face-to-face.

Good to see you @Brian Hyla

Has anyone seen or heard of any events in Fairfield County?

I'll try to attend!

Hi all, just finding this thread, and will connect with some other local people here. @Jessica Marin sorry I know good cpa and atty in FF County area but not near you.  

Hi Friends!  I'm in Ridgefield, CT and constantly on the lookout for good BRRRs.  I've fortunately been able to find good underwriting from a local bank.  I occasionally talk to HMLs, but their terms are so crazy that usually I fall off my chair laughing and then politely end the phone call.  What poor people have to subject themselves to these criminal terms?!!

I always need the names of good contractors and service providers.  

I'm an architect and MBA, so if you need anything designed/stamped, inbox me.  I keep it real and in budget.

Hi Dan et al, I'm an architect in Ridgefield CT (just over NYS border) and have done 100s of renovations on older homes (love them!).  1900 is a good year!  Houses are solidly built, have great bones, if you can work around or update the design obsolesence.

The comment the person above made about bringing building up to code is not quite correct. You only have to bring aspects of the building that are being altered up to code, not the entire structure. That said, I recently almost had a closing fall through (and almost lost my EMD!) when my property insurance company suddenly outright rejected coverage because of knob-and-tube wiring and multiple layers of roofing and deteriorated chimney. I finally found an insurer, and was able to close, but I had to remedy those conditions immediately.

Note also that home inspectors will warn you left and right that they are not required to detect building code violations/deficiencies.  I almost at a point where I don't even bother with home inspectors.

Some other common issues with older houses, particularly if you will be renting:  lead paint, asbestos, mold (although I find older houses are leaky enough that, as long as the roof drains well, air movement through the building is good and prevents moisture buildup), steep staircases, narrow hallways.

But you MUST MUST MUST do a walk-through with an experienced contractor (one who specifically has experience renovating older houses/buildings) prior to placing an offer.  He/she will give you a good idea of what you're in for costwise.  Then take that # and multiply by 1.25 and you've probably got a good rehab cost #.  If he/she likes you, they might even be kind enough to talk you out of a bad purchase!

More specifically, it's hard to say without seeing the house.  I'm happy to help you....just PM me.  

 Great details on that project, Ori!  Thanks!

What is your "fill" in your "drill and fill"?  Cellulose? Have you yet come across a spray foam that can be used/filled into an existing wall cavity?  

Database is fantastic.  Thank you.  Will check into it.

I'm an architect/investor in Fairfield County, CT, and I totally feel your love of older homes.  I have to admit, I sort/filter my property listings to 1880-1930.  I have credible professional reasons for this, and here goes:

Pre-1870, buildings are likely not stick-framed, will be framed post-and-beam.  The walls thicknesses will be a disaster when replacing doors and windows.  And nothing will be to code, so if you open up any wall be prepared to open your checkbook to whatever craziness the building inspector is in the mood for that day.

1870-1930 houses are incredibly solidly built.  Nothing present day comes close.  The framing is old-growth wood and structurally is double the density of present-day framing.  Literally double.  The exterior siding, if it is still lurking under the mold-inducing vinyl siding, allows the wall to breathe but at the same time rot-resistant.  The plaster finish on the interiors of walls just about eliminate any sound transmission.

Insulation is an issue, but if you can't insulate in the wall cavity, a layer of rigid foam on the exterior can offer quick payback.  For windows that are historically accurate, nothing beats Marvin.

The most heartbreaking thing that can happen is when an old house is stripped of it's interesting exterior trim and detail.  But it is getting easier and easier to match/copy exterior detailing using stock PVC, which paints nicely and will never rot.  I'm currently checking into a new company Intex which claims to be able to replicates and exterior trim/detail/molding/bracket at a competitive pricepoint.

Michael, or anyone else, don't hesitate to contact me about some ideas to preserve some of the unique and beautiful details of your property.  Good luck!