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All Forum Posts by: Jeremy Z.

Jeremy Z. has started 0 posts and replied 229 times.

Originally posted by @Account Closed:

These posts are actually amusing for Mortgage Industry people to read at just how out of touch they are with reality and all the  stupid mistakes that go on behind the scenes at Banks during the loan process and U/W.

Yes, there are no Mortgage Industry people responding to this Topic advise, but there are also No Mortgage Industry people disputing this advice either.

Their silence on this subject says it all!

 Maybe their silence is due to embarrassment over all the mistakes the underwriters and loan officers are making (according to you).

 Or you know, you could just stop fat-fingering the sales price when you punch in the numbers.

Again, I kind of see where you are coming from, but your approach could definitely use some work!

Originally posted by @Account Closed:

@Jeremy Z., why would you say Shame on us?  

I do everything I can to give my Pre-Approved buyer/borrowers an edge on the completion and it has worked extremely well over the years!

Read this strategy and tell us what you think:

https://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/552/topics/557953-negotiate-from-a-position-of-strength  

 Looks like my comment went right over your head.

@Steve McRory -  "And because they already know the depth of the backwards and antiquated mindset they see"

So when you use oddball numbers it's cool, but when buyers/sellers do it it's backwards and antiquated???

Originally posted by @Account Closed:

Listen, I am the King of the oddball number thing as for the last 20 yrs, I've made my Qualification letters oddball amounts and have had to argue with realtors all the time over why the letter is for example  $804,117  purchase price  vs.  $804,000.

Or when the offer is being made for $750,000, why am I sending a letter for $804,117?https://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/552/topics/557953-negotiate-from-a-position-of-strength

 "I'm the KING of using oddball numbers as a psychological negotiation tactic, but shame on you guys for doing it!"

I can see where you are coming from and you could have come here and politely requested that investors help make the process go smoother for everyone. Instead you came here and acted condescending, all the while looking like your process needs improvement. If I was doing business with you I would either move it elsewhere or send you oddball sales prices just to get under your skin!

Let the numbers dictate. How long will it take to recoup your half? Check out the competition. Do most of them have upgraded counters? If so, I might be inclined to do it.

If you decide to move forward, either give them a few options or at least have veto power! In other words, make sure the counters that go in will be desirable to a wide range of prospective tenants.

Post: Heloc to pay off mortgage faster

Jeremy Z.Posted
  • Tacoma, WA
  • Posts 230
  • Votes 257
Originally posted by @Cara Lonsdale:
Originally posted by @Steven D.:

PMI % is based on the original amount borrowed, it does not decrease as you pay down principal.

This is absolutely a false statement. Mortgage insurance is calculated annually, using the outstanding balance and LTV ratio.

So, while your payment will be the same for the entire 12 month period, it will change for the next 12 month period based on the reduced principal that is outstanding.

Keep in mind, the annual calculation is completed upon the 12th month of the anniversary of the loan origination, not a calendar year.

Here is an example from my own portfolio for an FHA loan that my husband and I obtained while doing a house hack in 2012, that has since been converted to a rental property....

Original loan amount $247,926

Year 1 PMI - $251.68

Year 2 PMI - $246.94

Year 3 PMI - $242.01

Year 4 PMI - $236.90

Year 5 PMI - $231.58

Year 6 PMI - $226.07

We are currently in year 7. Our loan anniversary is in August, so our PMI hasn't been recalculated for year 7 yet.

Hope that helps clear it up.

You are conflating Mortgage Insurance Premium (MIP) on FHA loans with Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) on conventional loans.

Investopedia - Difference Between PMI and MIP

I believe @Steven D.'s statement is correct, that all PMI is based on the original principal amount borrowed (although I suppose there could be exceptions). But ultimately, it's important for borrowers to understand which type they have and what the rules are for their specific loan/insurance terms.

Post: Do you lease or buy your vehicle ?

Jeremy Z.Posted
  • Tacoma, WA
  • Posts 230
  • Votes 257
Originally posted by @John S.:

I said that you buy a used car or 25 k.   A 7 year old car with 300k in mileage is worth how much in blue book value.  This is assuming that the car was originally only 2  years old when you buy it for $25k. 

 The lease numbers you quoted earlier are way off if you are putting 50k miles/year on it. Your comparison is apples to oranges.

Post: Heloc to pay off mortgage faster

Jeremy Z.Posted
  • Tacoma, WA
  • Posts 230
  • Votes 257
Originally posted by @Joshua S.:
Originally posted by @Jeremy Z.:
Originally posted by @Joshua S.:
Originally posted by @Jeremy Z.:

@Joshua S.

Are you sure your lender requires 70% LTV for automatic PMI termination? I've only ever seen 78% quoted, and this article by the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau seems to indicate that 78% is federal law under the Homeowners Protection Act. I would follow up with your lender if you are still paying PMI and have reached 78% LTV or less.

Here is the actual Homeowners Protection Act. I didn't read through the entire document, but a quick search found 5 mentions of "78%".

Yes, I'm sure. I find it odd, too, but it's "only" $39/month and my profit on the place has more than covered it. I'm planning on having it taken off within the next 6-12 months, but I wanted to pay down some more principal before paying for an appraisal in case I'm off on the appreciation side. 

Anyway, thanks for the info, I will bring that up to them at some point and see what they say. Right now I'm at just over 80%, anyway, so it's not an issue I can press either way, but I'd obviously like to know if the target is wrong.

If I was in your position I definitely wouldn't pay for a full appraisal. Everything I am reading indicates that 78% LTV is a federal requirement. Even if there is an exception to that requirement in your case, it probably makes more sense to just wait until you pay off the next big chunk with your HELOC (as long as that gets you to 70%). A full appraisal in my market runs $700 these days. Even at $400 the numbers probably wouldn't make sense, especially since an appraisal could still come in low. Now if the lender will accept a BPO (broker price opinion) or some other inexpensive valuation, that is a different story. But I think they typically require a full appraisal.

Anyway, just thought I would offer a little unsolicited advice :) Cheers!

FYI - Looks like the requirement changes when you turn it into a rental.

https://www.fanniemae.com/content/guide/servicing/...

 That makes sense. Thanks for the info.

I need to add a caveat to my previous suggestion that it may be better to use your HELOC to pay down principle and eliminate PMI, rather than paying for an appraisal. I was thinking in terms of a mortgage on a primary residence, where this clause from the Homeowners Protection Act would apply:

There is no provision in the automatic-termination section of the act, as there is in the borrower requested PMI cancellation section, that protects the lender against declines in property value or subordinate liens. The automatic-termination provisions make no reference to good payment history (as prescribed in the borrower-requested provisions) but state only that the borrower must be current on mortgage payments.

You should probably verify that the same rules regarding subordinate liens apply to investment properties before using your HELOC. If your HELOC is secured by a separate property than this is probably a moot point.

Anyway, I didn't want to lead you astray there.

Post: Heloc to pay off mortgage faster

Jeremy Z.Posted
  • Tacoma, WA
  • Posts 230
  • Votes 257
Originally posted by @Joshua S.:
Originally posted by @Jeremy Z.:

@Joshua S.

Are you sure your lender requires 70% LTV for automatic PMI termination? I've only ever seen 78% quoted, and this article by the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau seems to indicate that 78% is federal law under the Homeowners Protection Act. I would follow up with your lender if you are still paying PMI and have reached 78% LTV or less.

Here is the actual Homeowners Protection Act. I didn't read through the entire document, but a quick search found 5 mentions of "78%".

Yes, I'm sure. I find it odd, too, but it's "only" $39/month and my profit on the place has more than covered it. I'm planning on having it taken off within the next 6-12 months, but I wanted to pay down some more principal before paying for an appraisal in case I'm off on the appreciation side. 

Anyway, thanks for the info, I will bring that up to them at some point and see what they say. Right now I'm at just over 80%, anyway, so it's not an issue I can press either way, but I'd obviously like to know if the target is wrong.

If I was in your position I definitely wouldn't pay for a full appraisal. Everything I am reading indicates that 78% LTV is a federal requirement. Even if there is an exception to that requirement in your case, it probably makes more sense to just wait until you pay off the next big chunk with your HELOC (as long as that gets you to 70%). A full appraisal in my market runs $700 these days. Even at $400 the numbers probably wouldn't make sense, especially since an appraisal could still come in low. Now if the lender will accept a BPO (broker price opinion) or some other inexpensive valuation, that is a different story. But I think they typically require a full appraisal.

Anyway, just thought I would offer a little unsolicited advice :) Cheers!