All Forum Posts by: Josh L.

 This advice really depends on how many bedrooms we're talking about.

If we're talking about converting a 2 bedroom into a 3 bedroom, then it makes sense to try to create that additional bedroom.

But, if your place is already has 4 bedrooms, then I wouldn't try to create another bedroom and try to squeeze in 5 bedrooms. 

 So, if I understand you correctly, it all depends on whether or not the wall is textured behind the mirror? If the wall's textured, then I'd need to texture it. But, if the wall isn't textured, then I don't need to texture it. 

I don't mind painting it, but texturing is something I've never done before and would rather avoid. 

I'm looking at pics of current comps, and it looks like some have hardwood flooring or something that looks like it. But, in their ads, they don't mention hardwood.

In those cases, do I assume its not really hardwood? If I had hardwoods, I'd emphatically market that in my advertising. 

SF used to do studies and research on rent control, but then stopped doing them because they didn't like the results they were finding. 

I bring up rent control because Airbnb is just the latest whipping boy to distract people from how disastrous rent control has been as Airbnb  gets blamed for high rents. The thinking goes if only Airbnb didn't exist or if you could pass a state law to get rid of the Ellis Act, then rent control  would finally work in SF.

Its like those people who still clinged to communism, who said communism would have worked if only this happened or if that happened. 

Is there anyway to know whether or not it needs to be textured before I take down the mirror? Or, do I just assume all wall behind a bathroom wall needs to be textured?

Painting the wall doesn't seem like a big issue,  but texturing sounds like more of a hassle? How much would it cost to texture each wall in a bathroom if I removed the mirror?

For all those who got curved shower rods, how did it work out for your rentals? Did it ever cause any problems or get damaged?

 Do you have any pictures of how effective buffing out the scratches would be?

How much would it cost a wood flooring expert to do it?

Could you buff out scratches for both engineered and hardwood flooring?

Awhile back, I updated the bathrooms with new vanities, granite countertops, and new faucets. But, I don't think I really saw increased rent on those upgrades because 

1) the kitchen also needs to be updated

2) the bathroom wasn't completely remodeled so it feels a bit incomplete 

The kitchen is too expensive to remodel and update. 

But, I've already spent the big money on the bathroom so I figure if I finish updating the bathroom, then the bathroom might feel more like a remodeled bathroom than what it currently looks like:

The biggest thing I could do seems like it'd be the bathroom mirrors since they're so big and something you see when you walk in. Right now, I have those builder grade mirrors in the bathroom that take up the whole wall. (Its ironic that designers love stand alone mirrors to visually expand the space and reflect light, yet its considered dated to have a huge mirror like that in the bathroom).

From what I see, the thing today's bathroom mirrors have are frames surrounding the mirror. I went on youtube and looked at instructions and found all these instructions where they kept the current mirror in place and then added or glued a frame around the existing mirror. 

To add a frame over the existing mirror like that, it seemed a bit complicated and wasn't even that cheap. Why not just take the existing mirror down and then buy a framed mirror from Home Depot and attach a framed mirror to the wall?

I went to various flooring places, and they all recommended against using hardwood floors. 

I was testing some of those hardwoods with my key, and they scratch pretty easily whereas I couldn't do that to the laminates. 

Even if you have a class A, nicer property, how do you deal with hardwood floors when they're easily scratched? Do you just accept those scratches?

Yes, you can re-finish wood floors but if you did that after each tenant, you wouldn't have any wood left to refinish after a couple of tenants. 

I don't see the upside for the landlord to accept a holding fee. 

If the tenant wants it, why not have the tenant sign a lease?