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All Forum Posts by: Kenneth Bullock

Kenneth Bullock has started 0 posts and replied 59 times.

Post: Rent vs Flip - How much it too much rehab on a C class property?

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

If you plan on renting, don’t skimp on the mechanicals, like HVAC, Plumbing...etc. You will save your self time, money and headaches.

 Not to mention, you won’t be a slum lord, renting a piece of crap dwelling, with non working AC, backed up pipes, with fancy blinds and counter tops.

Post: Repair or Replace HVAC with a tight BRRRR budget

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

The unit is undersized. A true load calculation  would tell you the exact size needed, but the industry rule of thumb is 400ft ^ per ton. If you plan on having a tenant that can’t make rent, because the electric bill is through the roof during the summer, or calling constantly about a hot house, just clean it and replace the motor.

If you opt for the actual problem fix, make sure the line-set is replaced, and properly sized, for the new system.... FYI, new back splash is pretty, but occupant comfort will be worth its weight in gold, when you’re not receiving calls on a Sunday about the AC.

Post: Hvac or electrician help needed

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

The condensing unit or heat pump,will need a dedicated 220-240v service. Depending on your state and city code, the furnace or air handler will be tied into an existing circuit. If you opt for an air handler with heat strips, it will also need a 220-240v dedicated circuit.

Here in California, we put a pigtail (appliance plug) on them, and plug them into an outlet. 

When I ran my HVAC business in Louisville, KY, we were required to run a separate, dedicated circuit to both units.

Post: Old furnace and AC in duplex deal

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32
Originally posted by @Matt R.:

Disclaimer: I am not a professional HVAC person.  I've bought new furnaces and A/Cs for houses before.  :)

Find out what size the furnace and A/C are.  The furnace will be rated in BTU/hr - probably something between 60,000 and 130,000 or so.  The A/C will either be rated in tons or BTU/hr - something between 1.5 to 4 tons, or 18,000 to 48,000 BTU/hr.  There will also be an efficiency rating, which will be something between 10 and 14 SEER for the A/C, and 80% to 95% for the furnace.  These don't have anything to do with the sizing, but they do affect the price, and they may affect the rebates you can get from the local utilities for upgrading.  The home inspector may have put the model numbers on their report; you can determine the size from those, and with a little Googling, you can probably come up with the SEER and furnace efficiency.

Call a few local HVAC companies and see if they'll give you an estimate over the phone, for that size furnace and A/C, with equal or better efficiency to what you have now - some will quote you over the phone and some won't.  Or, Google for ads - some of them will advertise things like "80,000 BTU/hr furnace and 3 ton AC installed for $X".  Add a few hundred bucks to $X, because they leave some things out of that price, but it will at least give you an idea.  

Many HVAC companies will offer a financing option.  Often, it isn't real great - it's like a store credit card with high interest - but it might help spread out the cost a little.  You might ask your bank how long you have to own the duplex before you can get an equity line of credit on it - you might be able to finance the systems through the HVAC company, pay that note for 6 to 12 months, and then pay off the HVAC company's 18% loan with 6% money from your equity line.

Right now, every HVAC company is busy fixing and swapping air conditioners.  By October, they'll be busy fixing and swapping furnaces.  There is a lull in their business sometime around September, and if you can possibly schedule a replacement then, they will sometimes give you a discount of one or two hundred dollars a system, just to keep their techs busy.  They might also cut you a little bit of a deal for doing both of them at once, but I'm not as sure on this one, because I've never done it.

Also check with the local electric and gas company - sometimes they offer rebates for replacing old systems, or moving up to a higher-efficiency system.  Sometimes a tech has to test your old system and then test the new system for you to get the rebate; sometimes you just have to fill in a form that lists the model numbers of the old and new equipment.  The utility should tell you how it works.  The HVAC companies know about these rebates, and have adjusted their pricing accordingly, but it can still save you a little money.

If it were me, and I didn't have the money to do two furnaces and two A/Cs, I'd do the two furnaces.  If a furnace screws up bad enough, it can kill somebody.  If the A/C quits in a way that is uneconomical to repair, a couple of hundred dollars at the hardware store or general store gets you some window units that will serve until you can replace the central air.

If you just want to replace the furnace, the HVAC people will make noise about "the system will be unmatched", mostly because they want to sell you an A/C too, and a little bit because installing a new furnace with an old A/C can make the installation slightly more complicated.  (Mostly, they might have to build a little bit of duct between the new furnace and the old A/C coil, which they don't have to do if they are doing a new furnace and a new A/C coil.)  Try not to pay too much attention to that noise - it's perfectly possible to make a new furnace work with an old A/C coil.  If one HVAC company doesn't want to do it, ask another one.

If you do just the furnace, ask if they can have a tech work over the A/C while they are there for the install.  Mostly this would include cleaning out the outside unit with a hose, cleaning the inside coil before they install the new furnace, checking the refrigerant (Freon) level, and (if they're feeling really spiffy) checking the amp draw on the compressor.  Doing this stuff will help the A/C last as long as it can, and tell you a little more about what condition it is in.

It will be different in Detroit, but as some kind of reference: In the Kansas City area, with existing ductwork, I could probably get two complete, nice systems - about a 2.5 ton, 13 SEER A/C, and 100,000 BTU/hr, 90%+ furnace - installed in an average duplex for maybe $14,000 to $15,000 all in.  If I used cheaper systems I could probably get it down to around $10,000, plus or minus.

 Matt is on point, with the exception of the unmatched system portion. I am currently a senior level residential and commercial, on site tech/installer. 

If you install a new furnace, and opt to not install a new evaporator coil and condensing unit, you will pay almost double in labor, as the company will have to disconnect all of the furnace attached duct work, to install a new evaporator coil, as well as evacuate and vacuum the system down, a second time, when you decide to install the new outdoor section. 

Also, always change the evaporator coil (indoor coil) when installing the new condensing unit (outdoor unit) or face the wrath of the manufacturer, come warranty time, they like a matched set, with paperwork.......or,..... maybe you choose a guy that works for a guy, he screws up the install, pulls no vacuum, leaves the undersized line-set, old evap coil, then you pay more money for a reputable company to come out and right the wrong.

I REALLY, REALLY, wish people would focus more on the IDAQ, utility costs and comfort of the tenants, vs the color of the damn walls and floor type.

Post: AC work with no auth

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

@Katherine Walker

Do you know what the trip charge and hourly rate is? Do you know how long the tech was there diagnosing the problem? Do you know what type of unit we are dealing with, did the tech use expensive OEM parts, or were they aftermarket.

My school has an account with TRANE, Johnstone and several other big name companies, have done several hundreds of thousand of dollars worth of equipment purchases in my ten years at the company. I got quoted $400 for an OEM and $250 for an aftermarket condenser motor today.

Ask for a detailed bill, and talk to your tenant about future authorization. If decide to use the company again, speak with the owner about future authorization, and “quotes” as well.......ALWAYS ASK FOR A QUOTE, you will still pay a trip charge, but it will be added in to the final cost, if you allow the tech to perform the job.

Post: HVAC Copper in the Hood

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

Good day.

From a technician stand point. First you need to talk to the seller about getting an HVAC Tech, or handyman, to close the service valves on the condenser, with an allen wrench or service tool, so that moisture, non condensibles and bugs don’t enter the unit.

How close is the unit to the house? For service reasons, you need at least 18”-24” from the house per manufacturers install instructions.

I don’t know what the local codes are in your area, but I would move the unit close to the house, increase the size of the cage, and attach the cage to the house. 

FYI, always use square or round tubing, four poles and chain link are no match for lineman pliers or bolt cutters.

Make sure your cage opens on the top, so you can service the fan or compressor if need  be. 

P.S., Don’t skimp on the lock, use a contractor grade lock, if possible, get the lock installed on the inside of the cage (no room for bolt cutters to open), and make multiple copies of the key. 

Post: Am I nervous for no reason? Good deal? Help

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

An 11 year old HVAC system, should not need replacing. 25 years doing residential and commercial HVAC. 

Post: 22 Year Old - Third Deal: $51K Profit Flip

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

Great job, and congratulations! Thank you for such a detailed explanation of the flip.

Post: Buying a quadplex with an old HVAC system? Homewarranty? Advice

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32

12 years is not old for an HVAC system, that has been maintained. HVAC systems are similar to cars, if installed correctly. 

If you service the system and change the filters, they last for ever.

 Like Mr. Reichert stated, are they R-22 or R-410A systems?  If R-22, replace as soon as possible.

Post: "what would you do if you only had $20K to start investing?"

Kenneth BullockPosted
  • Specialist
  • Los Angeles, CA
  • Posts 61
  • Votes 32
Originally posted by @Angel Gracia:

@Shelby Ek what is a house hack?

 Live in the house or multiple family dwelling, while you fix it up.