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All Forum Posts by: Larry Bowers

Larry Bowers has started 15 posts and replied 60 times.

TLDR: Creditor made zero true effort to contact me to settle a debt I couldn't have reasonably known about. I want the information off my credit report. Need advice on fighting it. 

Hey BP, I need advice on how to remove past due information off my credit report based on what I'll call "lack of reasonable effort & diligence on part of creditor". That creditor is Baltimore Gas & Electric (BGE).

I expect the answer is ''just file a dispute", but need to know what to put in that letter to make it most effective, and any other relevant advice. Like what to say or not say when I call the collection agency.

It has to do with rental property that has a "automatic change" to the owner when a tenant moves out and closes their account. During a tenant turnover, the bill went back into my name, and a bill was created. This was back in January 2021. Fine, happy to pay it, but I have to know about it. It's worth mentioning the house is managed by a property management company and is over 1000 miles away. 

BGE has my phone number and email address, but the bills were being sent in paper form to the rental house. Well, BGE never made contact with me by phone or email, even though they claim they did. The tenants in the house probably got the bills in the mail and just ignored them. I'd do the same if it were me, and the tenants don't know me, they just deal with the property management company.

After 8 months of "trying to contact me" hahahaha, BGE sent the bill to a collection agency. The collection agency never called, texted, or emailed me about the debt either; it seems they've had the account for a month or so. But they did report it to Equifax. I just found on out now when I applied for financing and got my scores in the mail. Now my credit score fell to 665 at Equifax where my other bureau scores are over 800. I haven't called them yet, just learned about this today and putting together a strategy.

Obviously, I am irritated that I never got a fair shake to settle the debt. Seems the dirty little trick and lazy method of debt collection is to report the credit bureau straightaway...I mean why not handle more accounts and collect on more accounts instead of wasting time picking up the phone, emailing, or otherwise tracking me down?

If I word it in the dispute letter that no effort was made to contact me by BGE or the collection agency, seems like that's the same as appearing in court and telling the judge that I didn't do the crime. Sure, that's what they all say. Based on other credit history, I have some credibility in that I'd probably pay it, beyond that, I have nothing. 

I figure just make a deal with the collection agency that if I pay they removed it from report. Is this how it goes? 

Any advice, magic bullets? Thanks!

I want to close out this thread with my findings and recommendations from septic & sewer contractors and the local sewer company. One bid to connect to the sewer is $14,700 all in. But the guy giving me the bid says it is very unlikely I will have problems if I get the tank cleaned out regularly. There is a slight risk that a tank so old could be damaged and the lid or cleanouts would need replacing or repairing. He said he's never bid and did a sewer connection job for a house of this level before. It's probably just me worrying too much. 

The biggest concern for this dwelling going forward would be tenants and foreign objects being flushed or using the correct type of laundry detergent. 

Many might see the septic tank as an advantage avoiding a separate sewer bill that runs ~$40 - $50/month.

I am really surprised there isn't some type of subsidy or program to help out homeowners that meet certain criteria in this predicament. Maybe the local sewer district could give a cut rate sewer service for a number of years. After the $14,700 job, thereafter starts the sewer bill.  

Originally posted by @Brian Eastman:

@Paul Winka

Contact support at iPlan. Your IRA with them is capable of investing in crowdfunds as well as conventional stocks and mutual funds on a brokerage. A custodian held IRA is not always the most efficient way to make such investments as there will be intermediary paperwork and fees charged by the custodian. Be sure to understand what those are as compared to sending funds back to Vanguard for making more traditional investments.

The IRA LLC will make any investments more seamless and eliminate any 3rd party fees. You can open an account with a crowdfunding platform or a brokerage house in the name of the IRA-owned LLC. It then becomes more seamless to take income from non-traditional assets such as notes and move that onto your LLC held brokerage platform to keep that capital productive.

Hi Brian, can an old LLC be used to enable the checkbook control? Does it have to be in the custodian's state or does it not matter? What are typical set-up fees?

Originally posted by @Dennis M.:

Deny him and If he asks 

“You sir are the weakest link .. goodbye”

Dennis, tell me if I missing something here, but when rejecting one NEVER has to say the reasons why. And therefore by saying nothing, that would nullify any Fair Housing problems. If that's right, seems to me the FH laws don't have a lot of teeth. 

So how is it people get into trouble with FH then? The applicant files a claim saying X landlord won't rent to me because I am from Y country, he just rejected my application and was silient on why? And then FH wants to see that applicant's file and ask what my criteria were and the real reason I was rejected? 

Originally posted by @Lynnette E.:
Originally posted by @Larry Bowers:
Originally posted by @Lynnette E.:

This was is a rural area of CA, house value was $200k, so much more than your house, but definitely not the half million dollar homes area.

It cost right at $2000 total for:

plumber to camera the pipe and locate the septic tank

backhoe to dig up the driveway piece by piece trying least damage

septic contractor to pump and inspect tank and system

septic contractor to replace the 2 lids

backhoe contractor to refill the driveway

sand/gravel the fill around the lids

reblacktop the damaged areas of the driveway

I could live with that, not bad!!! That almost seems unrealistically low. But it seems you weren't required to replace the tanks, just to fix them. 

I can't get it from the horse's mouth here as to the regulations, but supposedly if you have a septic tank fail and the county learns about it, you're on the hook to remediate the damage and then connect to the sewer. A permit to fix or replace septic tank will not be granted. So it may be a don't ask don't tell situation for this septic tank. The real double whammy is that after paying $10K or more to hookup, therein begins a monthly bill to the sewer district ad infinitum. 

How big was the area they tore up to do all that, 5' x 5' or so? 

The septic tank has 2 lids, so there was a hole about 5 feet by 5 feet at one lid.  But once they found that lid they knew the orientation of the tank they knew exactly where the other lid was and that hole was 3 feet by 3 feet.

 There was no repairs needed for the tank.  But they did damage both lids in the process and had to replace both lids.

I would say to inspect your system before getting excited about it as it may be fine.  And if it is fine, then sell it fast while your inspection is still good!

If its not fine, hook up to the sewer, hope you can just fill the tank, and sell it before the sewer fees eat you alive!

I would invest what was needed to keep the asset viable and market it as new and improved or newly inspected.

Re: "inspect your system before getting excited about it as it may be fine"
I've been told by different, unconnected parties about the sewer and passing inspection. Much the same as the chance for snow in the forecast this week. NO WAY it will pass. It has to do with its age, from the 1950s, before baffle walls and multiple lid systems were in place, and then of course the wear and tear on the structure in that time. In any case, I will post my full story to this thread when I get through with all this, hopefully it will help others in this situation. 

I am keeping calm and proceeding with getting bids to at least know if the cost will be $10K, or up to $40K. I should know something by the middle of next week. That's a wide range and could look at it as a capex with a 2 to 3 year payback with what the rents have been on it. It's soothing to think about it from that perspective. 

Just like an old car that is driven "til the wheels fall off" this is the strategy I am considering if I keep it as a rental. I had a '95 Honda Civic that had over 300K miles on it...it just wouldn't die...and finally sold it for not much less than I paid for it. Maybe this tank is the same. The tenants would have to move out for sure when the tank dies though, hopefully not in winter. 

Originally posted by @Don Meinke:

get a firm quote on hooking up to city.  Tenants should pay monthly bills.  That old leeach fields days are numbered.  All you need is a leaky toidy to wreck and drown the system.  Or one big party that includes a keg of beer.  You want to dig in fall time, not winter, or wet springs.

Re: "keg of beer", while I don't know the condition of the leach field, I do feel like I am teetering on the edge. 

Got a couple of guys coming out on Monday, so we'll see. I see you mention when to do a job like this. I understand not doing it in the winter with frozen ground or snow in the way. Why not dig in summer? 

Originally posted by @Matt M.:

I have been in business for almost 16 years. I’ve done everything from hanging a mirror to full remodels/flips/$40-50k jobs. Other than working for a PM on a commercial property, if I’ve been asked for proof of insurance 5 times in 16 years that’s a lot.

Interesting thread. Matt, looks like clients not knowing anything about insurance is typical around the country. Most probably don't know what they are looking at.

Just a comment too, reading this thread. This whole insurance thing...I dunno...if a grown man/woman from CL or elsewhere takes a job and due to his own negligence (maybe on drugs, maybe not, who knows) gets hurts on my driveway, roof, or whatever, then wants to sue me because he doesn't have insurance, that just doesn't seem right that the owner would be liable. If I were the contractor, even if I had it as a remedy to sue the owner, I wouldn't feel right about it. 

@Jason Bott@Michael Norris

Why wouldn't a liability release for bodily injury work for guys hired off of CL?

If one goes skydiving, they have liability releases to avoid lawsuits, or is this comparing apples and oranges? 

Originally posted by @Anthony Hurlburt:

Being a dirty person is not a protected class. So deny away. I however wouldn't give a specific reason for denial to a prospective tenant, unless it was credit report related.

Thanks. Seems a landlord would have be rather foolish to get caught up in a Fair Housing complaint then if he just keeps quiet about the real reasons for rejecting. 

I’ve seen a few posts in this forum that recommend handling lease paperwork for a prospective tenant at their current residence as a way to see how they will treat your place, like how clean they will keep it. Great idea. 

But if everything else checks out for credit, criminal background, evictions, etc, but their place is filthy, how can you legally deny them if they meet the other criteria?  A defense of "I saw your place and don't want you to rent my place" is good enough?  

Originally posted by @Mark Kudlach jr.:

Hello BP,

Figured I would provide some free advice that could save you an emergency rate call averaging from $125.00 to $450.00 sometimes more depending on which part of the country you live in. As a licensed septic installer and licensed plumber I find a very common problem in the service industry to be septic tank backups. Here are some tips to prevent future backups and possible service charges.

In a code complying situation generally for all septic tanks installed in the Late 90'S early 2000's installed properly you'll have what they call an outlet filter on the out going pipe into your leaching fields. If you're on city sewage you don't have to worry about this. Best way to know is, are you paying for a sewer bill or a water bill? If not, most likely you have a onsite sewage disposal system. Which should be pumped on average between every 3-5 years depending on how many people live in the home on a regular basis (3-5 people normally). And its also safe to say that the tank should be pumped even more frequently if it's older than 10-15 yrs in age,Bio-mat or a black slimy substance tends to clog most leaching fields over time. Back to the outlet filter, this will be located under the outgoing cover to the septic tank hence the name "outlet filter". Simply uncover the tank, which should by code be within 12" of existing finished grade. If you can't locate your tank go to the local health dept they should have the dimensions on file, ask them for the "As-built" plan your contractor who installed the system should have filed with the town upon completion of the work.If your tank is any deeper than 12" into grade you may want to add what they call a "riser" with cover over each cement cover of the septic tank, or at least where the pipe enters the tank and exits the tank. Lift the cover....sometimes easier said than done.....(you may need a 3 lb hammer to tap around the cover a couple of times to break the seal) Be careful not to hit it hard enough to actually break the cover completely. Proceed to lift the cover after breaking the seal. Now is the fun part! Put some rubber gloves on for this portion(smelly). If installed correctly you should see a 4" diameter PVC tee submerged into the effluent(milky substance). Reach down into the tee lift the filter out and proceed to clean over the tank with a hose until plastic edges are free of debris. This device is installed on most updated systems to prevent large objects from getting into the leaching fields.Once free of all debris insert back into original tee and line up arrow indicator on top of filter. This is one of the most common problems associated with septic tank backups. If you cannot stomach this process I don't blame you, when I do it I smell money nothing else lol, but at least now you'll be armed with this information the next time your pumping guy comes out to service the tank. Remember as well, that if you don't see the pumping guy digging up all three covers when pumping they did not pump the tank correctly.Updated tanks have internal baffle walls which are present from the manufacturer enabling the solids to be separated from the liquids , meaning if they only pump from the center cover which is most common.

1.They don't get all of the water out of the tank.

2.They cannot visually inspect the outlet condition.

3.They cannot clean the outlet filter. 

4.They cannot inspect the inlet condition where the pipe comes in from the house.

Hope this post helps you to educate you on septic maintenance and possibly saves you money in the future. If you have any question on septic or plumbing let me know I'll answer any question if you need me.

Thanks,

Mark

Mark, can't believe nobody has replied to your thread yet, I appreciate you trying to give back to the community with your post. My septic tank does not have an as-built, but the house was constructed in 1952 so it's probably as old as the house. The house is in Missouri, it's a 900 s.f. 2/1. Considering the age and size of the property, what can you surmise about the tank as far as likely size, what material it is made of, if there are baffle walls installed, etc? No septic issues to date and I read that they only last 30 years or so, so maybe they don't make them like they used to? 

Also, when a system "fails" that does not necessarily mean backing up into the house, correct? I am dealing with the situation here in this post: Missouri septic tank issue on $40K house. 

Maybe you give your .02? Thanks!