All Forum Posts by: Randy F.

Would they rather you be LESS precise with the installation? LOL

A bit more precise, but then you wanna be precise no matter the joint size... Starting with the prep. Prep is everything! If you dont have a flat surface to set tile on, youre handicapped from the start.

Ive always thought they need to change "rough carpentry" to "pre-finish carpentry". The framer with a rough carpenter attitude neglects to cull floor joists with an excessive crown or forgets to check crown on a few and you have speed bumps to drive over! Then the subfloor doesnt get floated out before the underlayment/tile backer goes down and you dont want to float over nice new backer and you think youll take it out by flinging dollops on back of yer tile and even if you do get it set within tolerances you didnt get full contact with the thinset and the first tile the new owner jumps and stomps on floor to scare his wifes cat outta da bafroom he breaks the mirror cuz hes po'd that he just cracked a tile! So yeah, its not too difficult... Ya just gotta be precise!! LOL

The most popular and readily available are CEG an Laticrete. I prefer the Spectralock over the CEG as its a bit easier to work with. The CEG seems to not clean up as well either and you can end up with a sticky mess. Critical to keep water clean and buff as you go. Have lots-o-rags on hand. Not that much more difficult than concrete based grout, just not as easy!

On cement grouts, I use surface sealers in spray bottle to spray down grout joints, let it soak in a bit, then buff off the tile with clean dry rag. Not enough difference between brands to worry about it, just be sure it says it leaves natural grout color. Some sealers are enhancing sealers and dry the same color as grout is when wet. I use it when I work up too much crem in washing process and grout dries lighter than I can live with, or when I cant find a color im happy with Ill choose one in right tone that is lighter than i want and enhance it to get down to desired color. That takes awhile before you know your grouts well enough to pull it off consistently. Sometimes it takes mixing grouts or using colorants and thats one good thing about cement grouts is the flexibility. Not so much with epoxy.

For me, the market doesnt matter so much and there IS no standard practice... Unless of course you are using the same cabinets, countertops and flooring in all your properties. A homes features and potential dictate what the treatments and finishes will be.

Start with the kitchen. The cabinets, countertops and flooring should all compliment each other. The best paint color is one that pulls a common tone from all three. It can be that light beige for a more conservative look, to the Harvest gold thats streakimg thru the granite.

Next the bath. Same thing, however best to stick to pulling out the lighter tones because baths are generally smaller spaces and the darker colors will close it in. Larger master baths Ill do in satin, semi-gloss on the rest for greater moisture resistance.

If there is color on the walls I like flat white ceiling as the flat reduces shadowing which highlights imperfections, and flat white "lifts" the ceiling while darker colors "lower" it. If going with off-white walls, I use the same off-white in a flat.

For livingrooms and family rooms, Ill pull color from fireplaces or woodwork and flooring. Choosing color for homes being sold is different than ones already occupied or being aet up by homeowner, in that you have no clue how it will be furnished and accessorized. A potential buyer who owns a blue livingroom set may say it wont work in your green livingroom, but if the wall color pulls earthtones from flooring the "feel" will work and their brain has nothing to process.

Exterior... Generally two color... Body/trim, unless there are architectural features You can cause to pop with a third color. Three considerations on exterior... the architectural style of the home, roofing color if keeping existing, and color of surrounding homes. As general rules, the more basic the design features, the more basic the colors. Trim and/or body color have connection to roofing color, and it neither looks like the rest of the homes on the block or stands out like a sore thumb.

Thats my 22 cents!

Edited: Ok... 23 cents... Semi gloss on interior trim unless its not in good shape or plain jane and I dont want it to stand out, and on the walls the lowest washable sheen. Satin or eggshell depending on brand of paint. Generally, the lower the sheen the softer the feel and the more sin is hidden. Especially if home isnt staged, to much gloss and hard surfaces makes for a "cold" feel. If using flat wall paint on say a higher end master bedroom, I then use a satin on trim.

Just remember when choosing sheen that gloss magnifies imperfections of walls and trim, so unless its in great shape, lower sheen is better. Rentals are a different story and washability is a greater concern.

They can only raise the rate on the parking meter so high before the intestine stretcher at the Polish Sausage Factory wont park there anymore, so I guess they've moved on to double dipping landlords to pay for their "nuclear free zone" signs!

Rural South Dakota is sounding better and better!

As to the concern about dirty grout... I have a six inch speed square in my pocket when Im tile shopping. Some of the cheaper tile is way out of square and requires larger grout lines to look decent. With square tile you can squeeze grout joints under 1/8" and use unsanded grout. Sanded grout tends to catch dirt and doesnt clean easily. But then I tend to prefer a grout color that pulls from a mid tone in the tile. If you want a busier contrasted look larger grout joints look better. If its dark tile and light grout use epoxy grout which doesnt stain like cement based grouts do.

Always seal your cementeous grouts. Dirt and stains wont permeate the grout and if your lucky, will just need a quick clean and re-seal at turnover. Dont want to deal with sealing and resealing grout? Use epoxy grout. More expensive and not as easy to use, but its tougher, doesnt stain, cleans easier, and no need to seal. I seldom use cement grouts anymore.

I also very seldon use ceramic on floors unless its all that fits an existing color scheme. On guts I build color and textural elements around the hard surfaces. Frustrating trying to find tile that pops with cabinets and granite. They are best chosen together, not as an afterthought.

I agree with David, and would add that with no mortgage holding costs may be minimal, but you might consider holding losses in your decision.

Some of my favorite Vince Lombardi quotes...

“Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence.”

“Winning is not a sometime thing, it is an all the time thing. You don’t do things right once in a while…you do them right all the time.”.

“If you’ll not settle for anything less than your best, you will be amazed at what you can accomplish in your lives.”
__________
And for my fellow rehabbers...

"If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?" John Wooden

And don't hesitate to replace the word, "time" with the word, "money"!!

You do your starts in early March? Ive been in Alaska too long!!! We cant put em in the ground till Memorial Day weekend. I sure do miss the seasons. "April showers bring may flowers" doesnt work here. And by the time the lilacs bloom here, the Fox river whitebase run is long gone!

How about a darkish green facia & gutters with merlot shutters and front door. Green and merlot or burgandy work well together as accent colors.

After rolling the snow machine on Friday and smashing my foot, I spent the day in my recliner, my foot up in the air, wondering why you all werent keeping me entertained on BP!! :c)

Thanks for a great thread, Brian!