All Forum Posts by: Troy Welch

Guys, this is some great feedback. 

The breaker box was replaced in August this year right before I took ownership. The electrician replaced the old 100 amp breaker with a 125 amp breaker. I wanted them to just provide an allowance so I could go with a 200 amp breaker but couldn't come to terms on it. So I am satisfied with the 125 amp breaker.

I have talked to someone from the company that did the work. At the time, I wasn't aware of the possibility of aluminum, we just talked about grounding or lack of. The person I spoke to suggested installing GFCI's on the first outlet of each circuit. If I don't have aluminum wiring, I will probably go this route this time, then replace wiring on the next upgrade. My only concern is the renter tripping GFCI's and calling every time - I guess it is easy enough to just tell them to reset.

I am handy enough to do the GFCI replacements - when I was a teenager, I volunteered on projects thru my religious organization in the electrical department. I've installed switches, receptacles, light fixtures, ran conduit, pulled wire. I never really got near the breaker panel on those projects. I've also installed several ceiling fans including one in the rent house and an led porch light.

I also like the idea of running the cables myself and letting the electrician connect to the breaker box. I am assuming that each room gets a run from the breaker box that splits to switch/light and receptacles that are in series, right? I should be able to talk with guy at the big box store for cable size and the like. Each room is pretty simple:

Living - 1 ceiling fan/light on common switch, 1 switch to porch light, 1 receptacle on each wall

Each of 3 bedrooms - 1 ceiling fan/light on common switch, 1 receptacle on 3 of 4 walls

Bathroom - 1 switch for vanity lights, 1 switch for exhaust fan/light (I am going to daisy chain an led light for more light in shower), 2 GFCI's

Hallway - 2 switches - one operates a light, the other used to operate an attic fan which is now removed

Kitchen - probably the most complicated 2 lights operated by single pole switches, currently 9 receptacles - 2 general purpose, 3 counter height, 1 for dishwasher, 1 for refrigerator, 1 for cooktop, 1 for oven. I will be going back with a range instead of cooktop/oven. A good point was made about no GFCI on refrigerator.

Garage - 3 switches -1 for garage, 1 for back yard flood light, 1 labeled as "goes to nothin", 1 GFCI that isn't working, 1 receptacle for washer dryer 

Christopher / Gilbert

Thanks for your feedback. I found some humor in the comment

"That's like asking your doctor of many years experience about heart problems you've been having and saying, " Please do not recommend heart surgery even if my life depends on it"."

I am rehabbing this 1st property.  Part of closing negotiations was that they replace the breaker box.  They hired a professional electrician who installed a 125 amp breaker box.  It looks like they did a very good job - I'm no electrician, but it looks better than the previous.

Most outlets/switches are 2 wire.  What do you guys recommend I do at this stage? 

I found this information on Homelectrical

The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) only recommends the following three methods to fix aluminum wire problems permanently

1. Completely replace your home with copper wire
2. Pigtail the aluminum wire ends with special crimp connectors called COPALUM
3. Connect the aluminum wire ends with aluminum to copper

Any other ideas from the pros??? I am hoping you don't say rewire... Is there a maybe a staged approach?

2nd post - You guys gave a LOT of good feedback on the insulation / vapor barrier post - Thanks a LOT.

I've got to say that I really appreciate everyone's detailed responses to my questions as well as different options. Man this is an awesome website!

I think at this point in time - at least until I decide to replace the siding - this advice works best for me:

"Yes I would treat moisture vapors with the hvac system. This is how the house has been done since it was built. If @Troy Welchis replacing the vinyl siding then I would add a vapor barrier to the exterior, but I don't believe he is doing so. If you are not addressing the entire house on the vapor issue then its pointless in one small area."

The House is in southeast Texas - Port Neches. I considered the blow in insulation, but without a vapor barrier, isn't it going to get damp and cause other problems? I figure it has done ok for 50 years now as is. Maybe I can add insulation/vb to the walls I open up now and do others later. I'm starting to realize this is somewhat common for a house this old. But I figure if I've got a couple of walls open, I should I may as well make the improvement now - I just don't want to do something that will cause more problems.

I just bought my 1st investment property. It is a 50+ year old property that is in pretty good condition. I just ripped out the kitchen cabinets and have a couple of concerns. 1. There is no insulation in the exterior wall. There does not appear to be a vapor barrier. The house has vinyl siding attached to plywood (I doubt it is treated). 2. The foundation under the cabinets appears to be damp. Since the walls are open and cabinets are out what should I do? I was thinking: 1. line the wall cavities with 6mil plastic and roll insulation. 2. Lay 6mil plastic under OSB (to match exist laminate floor thickness) and set the base cabinets on top.