All Forum Posts by: Ralph S.

You mean, again, in another way, or in addition to?

Be a dull life if anything tried was a runaway success. Don't stop,

Oscar

Never heard of this before and would be suprised if it were true, but if true, any such law would clarify what an applicant is, and is not. Best to read and understand the law itself.

Anytime you deliver bad news, remember the old phrase, "anything you say can and will be used against you in court." Anything you find during your tenant screening should be kept confidential. Could you expect anyone to provide an honest and possibly negative response if they felt you would then turn around and tell the applicant? The less said the better, and if you say anything at all, keep it simple and not specific.

Can't imagine this will ever happen.

BP has a lot of resources available on tenant screening. Search the forums for "Tenant Screening." Be aware of and comply with fair housing laws, and watch your words.

Good Luck.

see http://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/50/topics/31274-subject-3-financinf

Your first patch may not have stuck due to a lack of preparation. If it was bare to the metal and rusting, you need to get all the rust off, and make sure it is bone dry before putting on the patch. Any rust or moisture on the metal will be like a cancer and it will continue to rust between metal and patch, and eventually the patch will fall off. Before spending more serious money, I would suggest:

1. Get one of those rust removing gels to really get the rust off.
2. Scuff up the metal with emory cloth or sand paper. Clean with alcahol.
3. Dry with a hair dryer or better yet, a heat gun. Let it sit a minute or two to cool and let every bit of moisture evaporate.
4. Re-apply the patch, giving it a good coat.

I've used the stuff a couple times. It'll hold if the surface is free of rust and dry when you put it on.

Oh, Fun-Fun-Fun. Been there, done that.

Make sure you get the local code. In my area, they hadn't adopted the arc fault breakers. The local code should tell you what portions of the UBC are and are not required. My electrician told me every municipality is a little different.

Separating lighting from outlets is required so when someone overloads an outlet, the lights don't go out. Also, you mention using 12-2, not required, but you wouln't want to wire your lighting with it. Expect sticker shock when you can only find $2 20A outlets along side those 50 cent 15A.

Lot's of little gotcha's if you haven't done this before. For instance, even though the outlets have those easy "insert the wire" attachments, using them may not be to code. Also, in a pass through situation, you must pig-tail so that the current doesn't pass through the outlet.

Pick the electrician's brain. If you're doing something like this for the first time, you can't ask too many questions. I bought one of those home wiring books, too, so we had pictures while we talked. Even with all this, the first rough-in inspecrtion failed, and the inspector got real nit-picky after that. If the inspector can walk in and fail it after only glancing around (had wired one of the dedicated kitchen circuits into an outlet on the kitchen wall that served the next room), they'll be irritated, and that's not good. He made me make all the connections (pig-tails) before passing it.

A good education, but, much more to it than I originally thought. Ended up with more circuits and more outlets than planned for.

And don't forget the smokes, phone, cable and doorbells! I got popped for having the wrong gauge low voltage wire on the doorbell. Did I mention he got picky?

Good luck.

Ralph

Not to be redundant, but,
"Under Utah law, a landlord must return a tenant's deposit within thirty days after the tenancy ends (the tenant moves), or within fifteen days after the landlord's receipt of the tenant's new address, whichever is later."

Seems that the tenant, in order to get their deposit back in UT, needs to provide a forwarding address. Doesn't matter when they do this, and it clearly doesn;t support your statement about "if we don't get an address from the tenant within 30 days of move out, the deposit is forfeited." Unless it is in your lease, maybe.

What else is there? You're under no obligation to educate your ex-tenant as to what he needs to do. No obligation to respond to his email. When you receive a forwarding address, you have 15 days to return the deposit, or whatever portion he is entitled to.

I would know the state law.

http://www.utcourts.gov/howto/landlord/#6

The simple answer:
When must I return a deposit and when may I keep it?
Under Utah law, a landlord must return a tenant's deposit within thirty days after the tenancy ends (the tenant moves), or within fifteen days after the landlord's receipt of the tenant's new address, whichever is later. If you keep a tenant's deposit, you must detail all your expenses allowed by law or under the lease, deduct them from the deposit, and then refund the difference to the tenant. Landlords may keep a deposit to compensate for unpaid rent, damages beyond reasonable wear and tear, cleaning, and other costs provided for in the rental contract.

Uhh. I'm going to guess a lot more often than a drunk side-swiping a house. :wink:

I'm getting older. I can only wish I know now what I knew then......

Probably his cousin got the lucrative bike/tv contract, and he started with the women inmates....why?