Moving a house??
Hey folks, I'm new to BP (first post). I have a opportunity coming up to move a house onto a nearby piece of property I own. The house is 1200sqft 3bd/1bath, it's fully updated (kitchen and bath) has hardwood floors, new Hvac, vinyl siding, metal roof, and windows all within the last 2 to 3 years. Also, the inside is immaculate. It is currently on a commercial piece of property and after getting quoted to move it for 11k I got the house under contract for $7500.
I figure I'll have around 25-30 in it once it's moved and completely hooked up (septic, water, crawl space, Hvac, electrical, etc) my county has a 250.00 septic fee and a 75$ building permit fee for moving the house. I am really trying to think through the situation and get in front of any problems that might arise before the move. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Here is some extra info...
The house movers have assured me that this will go smoothly, as my farm is connected to the commercial property and they are only moving it 500 yards or so (no power lines etx). They say I should only have hairline cracks around the windows and doors that are easily fixed. I have called many other house movers and this seems to be the norm apparently, I would have thought there would be more damage. I am taking the Hvac and everything else of value as well. I am digging my own septic (which is allowed where we live) and am wanting to dig my own footers but am a bit weary of that, so I am still thinking that through.
Anyway, any help is much appreciated.
Going to follow this thread. I may be having to move a house in the future, thankfully all gutted in the first place. But, really wanted to move it about six miles. maybe I could find a closer lot.
Worst a case I'll tear it down. Want the land more than the house.
Hey Caleb, Just wanted to say welcome to BP! I'm curious, is this a mobile home you are moving?
it's not, it's a stick traditional home on a raised foundation
I have had houses moved onto lots and the results typically have turned out well without a hitch. On a 500 foot move i would say go for it. As to digging your own footings well they would not be that expensive anyway to pay others with more experience do it but it is your call. You should make out pretty good in any case so why sweat it?
I have a similar situation right happening right now. I have a home that is very cheep that I can move. I noted that you said that you have moved houses onto lots before. If you would, please contact me and let me know your words of wisdom.
Thanks in advance.
Hey Caleb, I am checking in to see how well the move went. Look forward to hearing from you.
Glenn D.
Did you get the info you were looking for?
I have move a lot of houses and have set several and flipped them. If you have any questions about the process feel free to ask
I did not get much in the way of reliable information. I am an intermediate investors and have done a wide spectrum of residential investing but I have never moved a home. I would love to get some of your insight so let me shoot out a couple questions to start the conversation.
- How many moves have you done?
- Was all the work - moving company, new foundation, electrical, plumbing, permits worth all it (ROI).
- What are some things to keep in mind? (i.e. cost, factors, expertise etc.)
Thanks for replying.
Glenn D.
I have been moving houses since I was a kid. I started running the company about 14 years ago. Since then I probably moved around 15-20 homes/garages/buildings for the four or five years. After that I stopped doing it as a "commercial" house mover and now only will move homes for myself, friends or returning customers.
For me, my moving costs are very low. Even still I have to really evaluate what I am getting with each house. Like is the wiring up to date or am I going to have to remodel the house once I set it. If it requires a lot of work then you are just paying someone to move an old pile of sticks. Some of the counties are very easy to work with and will allow us to put it on a foundation and "hook it back up" I guess they figure it is just as good as it ever was. It is just in a new spot. Others want us to bring it up to the new code as far as wiring heating plumbing insulation windows.
There are other costs associated with the move like power and cable lines that need to be moved. Most utility companies will give you a bid ahead of time.
Hope this helps.
That sounds great I wish you were in my neck of the woods - lol. I have 3 homes that need possible moving and have seen plenty of others. Your point is very valid that depending on the requirements your just paying someone to move an old pile of sticks.
Great information. I am running numbers on moving a 2000 sq ft SFR about 4 blocks. I run a handyman/maintenance business, but have never done a project like this. I'd love to get your input or anyone else's as well - positive, negative, cautionary, anything...
Here's some info about the project:
- The house was built in 2000 and is in pretty good shape. The land its on now is going to be a large housing development so they need this house gone.
- Its free if I can make the deal work.
- I have gotten numerous rough bids from subcontractors for plumbing, electrical, HVAC etc. For my budget numbers, Im trying to be very conservative since I've never done this kind of project. I'm assuming a full house re-wire, re-plumb and replacing the existing furnace and ducting - I understand that I may not need to do all that, but I'd rather plan on that and be positively surprised.
- I'm planning for another 60k in random repairs - drywall, interior and exterior paint, etc. NOT including the permits, dirt work, foundation and moving costs.
- There is a 1,000 sq ft unfinished attic that may be able to be finished out, potentially making it a 3,000+ sq ft house. Budget for this is not factored into the 60k mentioned above.
My plan is to get a HML to help fund the project and then re-finance/rent it or flip it. I'd love to hear your thoughts about any of this but specifically, I'm curious about what kind of ARV I could expect. I have heard that selling a home "Not built on site" can reduce the sale price by upwards of 20-25%...Is that accurate with your experience?
Tom
When I keep a house for myself I spend a lot more time with the preparations. Meaning, the point at which you separate the plumbing and heating and electrical can cost you a LOT more. There is a ton to separate and it is real easy to run through with a sledge hammer and sawzall and cut way too much.
Where it was built in 2000 most of your wiring should be up to code but may need a few AFCIs and GFCIs added. Some counties/ cities will allow Certain parts or the house that are existing no to be brought up to modern code. The worst one is usually insulation. As a lot of older homes are 2by4 framing and depending what part of the country you are in may need R19 which is very difficult without removing the siding. Also, I have had some inspectors make me change windows simply because they weren’t labeled to ensure they met modern code.
If plumbing is galvanized we just convert to pex. If you don’t want to hurt your shower. Just get as close as you can and put an adapter on, you will still pressure test to the shower valve. We usually separate the sewer lines so we can just add some couplers and put it right back.
Take some time with the HVAC as we usually leave all the ductwork down the middle and put it right back up when we get there since it already fits the house.
Most of your costs will be getting all your utilities to the house at the new location. Of course permits and excavation but also just the cost of the hookups if you are on city water and sewer+ the contractors to hook them up. We have had our electrical cost shoot up pretty high for a few reasons like maybe the transformer in the area wasn’t enough to handle another service or maybe they had to bring it over or under the street so be sure to get as firm of a number from the electrical company that you can.
The best advice I can give is to remember. You have a house from 2000 not from 2018. I guess that applies to any flip but the guys that do moved houses regularly just put them back together and remember that is the house they bought so why treat it apart and haul most of it to the dump.
Sounds like you finance them the way we finance them. HML and either sell or refinance.
Other parts of the country may be different but we have always been able to get full value at resale. It is similar to people that buy a house with a foundation repair. Some worry and some don’t so just disclose it up front and that way you will get a serious buyer a lot faster. If you get a buyer on the fence just have them call the mover and if they are a good house mover they will have no problems letting them know the houses don’t have any structural damage. I have moved HUNDREDS of buildings and none of them have had the structure compromised.
You should expect a few small cracks mostly above the doors and windows. They may even go along the support walls after it is set and level up your doors if needed.
Hope this helps, let me know if I missed anything or if you have anymore questions.
Quote from @Tim Olsen:
When I keep a house for myself I spend a lot more time with the preparations. Meaning, the point at which you separate the plumbing and heating and electrical can cost you a LOT more. There is a ton to separate and it is real easy to run through with a sledge hammer and sawzall and cut way too much. Where it was built in 2000 most of your wiring should be up to code but may need a few AFCIs and GFCIs added. Some counties/ cities will allow Certain parts or the house that are existing no to be brought up to modern code. The worst one is usually insulation. As a lot of older homes are 2by4 framing and depending what part of the country you are in may need R19 which is very difficult without removing the siding. Also, I have had some inspectors make me change windows simply because they weren’t labeled to ensure they met modern code. If plumbing is galvanized we just convert to pex. If you don’t want to hurt your shower. Just get as close as you can and put an adapter on, you will still pressure test to the shower valve. We usually separate the sewer lines so we can just add some couplers and put it right back. Take some time with the HVAC as we usually leave all the ductwork down the middle and put it right back up when we get there since it already fits the house. Most of your costs will be getting all your utilities to the house at the new location. Of course permits and excavation but also just the cost of the hookups if you are on city water and sewer+ the contractors to hook them up. We have had our electrical cost shoot up pretty high for a few reasons like maybe the transformer in the area wasn’t enough to handle another service or maybe they had to bring it over or under the street so be sure to get as firm of a number from the electrical company that you can. The best advice I can give is to remember. You have a house from 2000 not from 2018. I guess that applies to any flip but the guys that do moved houses regularly just put them back together and remember that is the house they bought so why treat it apart and haul most of it to the dump. Sounds like you finance them the way we finance them. HML and either sell or refinance. Other parts of the country may be different but we have always been able to get full value at resale. It is similar to people that buy a house with a foundation repair. Some worry and some don’t so just disclose it up front and that way you will get a serious buyer a lot faster. If you get a buyer on the fence just have them call the mover and if they are a good house mover they will have no problems letting them know the houses don’t have any structural damage. I have moved HUNDREDS of buildings and none of them have had the structure compromised. You should expect a few small cracks mostly above the doors and windows. They may even go along the support walls after it is set and level up your doors if needed. Hope this helps, let me know if I missed anything or if you have anymore questions.
Great information, Tim! In your experience, do most housemovers do the foundation and then work with other tradesmen? How do they make certain that the foundation is a perfect fit?