Investor · Belvidere, IL · Member since 2016 · 8 posts · 5 votes
I've worked in construction since I was in high school so I would like to tackle most of this myself, just maybe not the gutting. But I've always been the laborer and therefore mostly oblivious to the costs. So I'm looking for some general numbers here of what it's going to cost me. Per SQ/Ft numbers are fine.
It's a 2 story house built in 1890 and converted to a duplex in the 80's (I think). I'm pretty sure it's balloon framed. I plan to gut it down to the studs, removing plaster and lath, with drywall over the top. Remove the windows, electrical and plumbing also. I'm guessing I will have to do some framing to shore up the flooring. Then all new subfloor, electrical, PEX plumbing, drywall, windows, carpet and hardwood flooring, kitchen cabinets, bathroom fixtures, ect.
What should I expect for costs per SQ/Ft? $30? 50? 100?
Developer · New Orleans, LA · Member since 2015 · 1k+ posts · 898 votes
10y
@Jayme Carlson Sounds like you are not leaving much of the original house. Your costs would likely be similar to new construction if you were paying for the labor.
Since you stated that you wanted to do most of the labor yourself, you should be able to figure out the material costs. I would caution you on assuming you can do everything yourself. Your local city may not allow you as unlicensed to do certain work like electrical and plumbing.
Investor · Bloomfield, CT · Member since 2016 · 86 posts · 25 votes
10y
Hi @Jayme Carlson, I'd like to recommend you pick up "The Book on Estimating Rehab Costs" by J. Scott. In the opening chapter, he discusses why estimating based on square footage or number of rooms can be inaccurate, and then proceeds to detail how you can estimate every major component of a property based on the price range, materials, and labor. The last chapter puts it all together into a spreadsheet format you can use as a checklist and estimation tool.
Developer · New Orleans, LA · Member since 2015 · 1k+ posts · 898 votes
10y
@Jayme Carlson Sounds like you are not leaving much of the original house. Your costs would likely be similar to new construction if you were paying for the labor.
Since you stated that you wanted to do most of the labor yourself, you should be able to figure out the material costs. I would caution you on assuming you can do everything yourself. Your local city may not allow you as unlicensed to do certain work like electrical and plumbing.
Architect · Papillion, NE · Member since 2015 · 1k+ posts · 840 votes
10y
I second what @Mike Wood said. Cost will depend on level of finishes as well. I would guess $50 - 75 per sq ft at it just for starters. The best way is to do a quantity count pricing. RSMeans is a common book / tool used for estimating. I would spray foam insulate all the exterior walls as I bet there is not any insulation in the walls.
North Reading, MA · Member since 2016 · 1 post · 0 votes
10y
@Jayme Carlson If the house was built in 1890, you are very likely correct; it is balloon framed. It is also very unlikely a house built during that time period has fire blocking installed. Nearly all building codes require that if you open walls during reconstruction you must address and fix any code non-compliant items. Prior to electrical wiring, plumbing, and insulation, the fire blocking would be installed and inspected. I recommend checking with your local building inspector.
Due to the dimensional differences between lumber today and 1890 lumber, you will most likely have to rip larger stock to the correct width as a tight fit is required for fire blocking.
Newark, IL · Member since 2016 · 45 posts · 15 votes
10y
In Illinois you can fire block with fire caulk or foam. If you are putting stainless appliances , granite, and hardwood use the 80-85 dollar a sq ft for budget purposes.