All Forum Posts by: Eric Teran

@Arthur C. Here is a link to the DC ADU zoning handbook, http://handbook.dcoz.dc.gov/use-categories/other-uses/accessory-dwelling-units/.

As @Russell Brazil says it is only allowed for owner occupants to rent out.

@Stephen Mattison one more thing. Build as much as you can in the factory. The less that has to be done on site the more you will save and the faster the construction.

@Stephen Mattison I built my own modular house in Alexandria, VA and know all the companies on the east coast. No idea about the west coast.

However you can look at a few modular website associations. Here are a few I found, https://www.modular.org/, https://www.nahb.org/, https://www.modularhousing.com/.

Some companies will only sell you their stock plans. Others will let you do costume. I was able to do my own design but I had to call 25 companies before I found one that would do costume the way I wanted it to. If you find an Architect be sure they know how to design to modular standards. The design has to start with modular in mind. Don’t design a house and then try to make modular work.

Good luck.

@Dana Boyes. Before you go spending money on an attorney realize that variances are extremely hard to be approved, cost a lot and take time.

I would look in your neighborhood or in the same zoned areas for other examples with similar situations. If you can find a precedent that will help your case. If not you may be fighting an uphill battle.

I am an Architect and I just had a client lose their variance hearing. This was after we obtained support from the neighborhood committee and the city planning office. However, the variance committee still denied us and we had a great case.

Just be careful. Variances are hard to get approved.

@Andrew McCartin I am an Architect and I have a client who is a buy and hold investor. He only buys in SE and mainly rents to section 8 tenants. He is doing pretty well but he is very involved in his properties and manages all of them.

I second what @Russell Brazil said about being careful. It is getting better but there are still some risky areas.

Good luck.

Matt, you are not alone. I am in the same boat and this has been going for me before Christmas. I can’t imagine the big is that hard too fix. 

@Ryan Lee I wrote a blog post after building my house on BP member blogs on why I like modular. If done correctly modular is the way to go. I am currently looking at buying some land in Northern Virginia to build another modular home to sell. Even if the costs are the same to build you will save a lot of time. If done correctly you can build a modular home in two months. Lots of caveats but it can be done. Traditional stick build will take at least 6-8 months unless you are a developer who has a crew and they always work for you because you pay them on time. 

In regards to using a stock plan that is fine. However, if you already have an existing foundation you will not find a plan that will fit so you will have to demo the foundation. Which may not be that big of a deal. Sometimes the stock plans don't work because of the setbacks but in Bowie I know most of the lots are a reasonable size. If you do custom modular you have to start your design with that in mind. My first attempt at modular I just designed the house and the modular companies said they could make it work. However, they forgot to mention that it was going to cost a lot more! If you design a structure and then try to make it work with modular then it will not be to your benefit. You have to start the design process from the beginning. You also have to try to build as much as you can in the factory. That will save costs and time. Once it arrives at the site you really can't make too many changes so there is no reason to be over budget once you sign the contract. 

I tried with a client to design a $3 million home in DC with modular but we couldn't make the big open spaces work. You may do a combination of stick build and modular but I'm on the fence on that one. I don't think in Bowie the house would need to be that big so you will probably not run into this issue with modular.

If you want an easier option for your first project do less yourself and hire professionals. You will earn less but can still learn a lot. 

@Ryan Lee

I just built my own house in Alexandria in 2017. It’s the second time I did it but this time building modular. There is a lot to do. You can read my blog post on my website that follows my 150 days of construction. I also acted as my own GC but I’m an Architect so I had some idea of what I was doing.

PM me if you want to talk. There is a lot to do.

@Frank Maratta

1. Setbacks - there are limits on how close you can build towards the property line. For example if you have a 20’ rear yard setback you can’t build there. You probably can put a parking lot but not a building. To verify the setbacks first determine the zone you are in. Then you will know the setbacks. You can probably find it online. I had one project killed because the setback was too much due to the adjacent property being a different zone with more restrictive setbacks. According to the city the adjacent properties setback governed because there had to be a transitional zone.

2. FAR - floor area ratio. If the property is 5,000 SF there will be an FAR number which means how much building you can build. If the FAR is 3 then on a 5,000 SF lot you could build 15,000 SF of gross floor area. However, sometimes you can’t build to the maximum FAR due to setbacks or height restrictions. Sometimes an FAR may be increased if you provide some affordable housing or improve public space.

3. Lot Occupancy - if you have 5,000 SF lot and the lot occupancy allowed is 50% that means you can only build on 2,500 SF of the lot above grade.

4. Green area space - similar to lot occupancy where it might be 20% of the lot. So you need to provide green space. It can be in the parking lot if you provide previous pavers or a green roof and may be within the setbacks. It is just another requirement.

With that said, all these restrictions will give you the allowed building envelope. For my clients I usually prepare a feasibility study on what may be built. I provide them all the restrictions, a few options on how to maximize the floor area and very rough design ideas. Then they determine if it works for them.

Also, you are correct that wood frame construction is only allowed up to 3 stories. Some places allow 4 but not more than that. Some mixed-use building have retail on the first floor made of concrete and then 3 floors of wood framing on top. Once you go over 3 floors you will have to do concrete, steel, or timber. Depending we’re you are will determine what is best for the lot.

@Frank Maratta have you looked at the zoning code yet? Once you figure out how many apartments you need to make your numbers work you have to verify that you can build it.

Go to the zoning department and ask the following questions:

1. What are the setbacks (front, rear, side, height)?

2. What is the FAR (floor area ratio)?

3. What is the lot occupancy or lot coverage?

4. Are there any green area requirements?

5. How many parking spaces does each unit have?

6. May parking spaces be reduced if near public transportation?

7. Are any public space improvements required?

8. Is there a minimum size for a unit?

Once you go over 3 stories you will need an elevator and two sets of egress stairs. This takes up a lot of space. Also, this will be a new building so everything will have to be to code.

The costly items are installing a bigger water meter/service line, sewer, catching water runoff, and the building foundation.

Once you know what you need to build verify that it may be built.