All Forum Posts by: Eric Teran

@Tyler Frazier all my designs have been very site and client specific. Additionally, the two modular apartment complexes I worked on are still in the design phases and are on hold. They are both around 20 units in DC. Both clients have multiple properties and they have decided to focus on their SFH first. As far as the SFH that I have designed two have been built (one of them was my own house) and two more were designed but then the modular company told us the flatbed trucks couldn't make some of the turns to get to the property even though they originally told us it wasn't a problem. Both of those homes were over 7,000 SF and they were a combination of stick build for the big open areas and modular units everywhere else.

I would be happy to sell some of my designs but I would want to be sure that they work on a specific site. That is the problem with modular stock plans. They only work on big open lots where setbacks and other restrictions don't come into play. In the DC metro area where I do my work, this is always a factor.  

@Alex Madden and @Allison Saunders I have done a few more basement remodels since I wrote on this post two years ago. In DC you want the basement to be called a cellar and not a basement. If it is considered a basement then it counts as a story. A cellar does not count as a story and in most of DC the height limit is 3 stories. This is taken from the height of the existing grade in the front yard to the underside of the first-floor joist. 

The big question to ask yourself is this cellar going to be a separate dwelling unit, an ADU, or part of the main house. These all have different requirements. Since this is BP lets go with separate dwelling units (AKA condo conversion) where the owner does not have to live in the house. With an ADU unit an Owner has to live in the main house and can rent out the ADU unit.

Here is a list of what will need to get done for a separate dwelling unit. 

1. Fire Separation between units at all common walls and ceiling. 

2. Fire Sprinklers in the new unit. One can be considered existing and the other new. If it is a complete gut job then they will both be considered new. 

3. With fire sprinklers most likely comes a bigger water meter and water lateral. No bigger but more money. If these are enlarged due to fire sprinklers there is no DC Water fee. However, if they are enlarged because you add 5 bathrooms then DC Water will make you pay a fee and it can be lot. 

4. Energy report. This confirms that the correct heating/cooling equipment is used. 

5. In addition to an Architect, you will also need an MEP engineer to seal the MEP (mechanical, electrical, plumbing) plans.

6. If there is structural work then you will need to get a structural engineer as well to seal the plans. 

7. The permit is based of a construction estimate. There is a form to be filled out. If it is an Owner/Builder then you can do it yourself and low ball the estimate for a lower permit fee but if it is too low DCRA will not accept it. If you have a GC then they can provide this. 

8. You will need neighbor letters from adjacent properties informing them what you are doing. If they don't live there or are mean neighbors then you send it certified mail and submit the certification after 30 days if there is no reply. 

I could go on but these are the big ones that can hold up a project. It sounds like a lot and it is but it isn't too complicated. Just a lot of boxes to check off. Good Luck!

@Ryan Proffit I am a big proponent of building modular. However, you have to be careful or it may not be worth it. I designed and built my own modular house. I saved time and money.

Here are a few thoughts.

1. You will save time which is money.

2. You may save a little to a lot of money but once again you save time. Imagine being done in three months compared to eight months.

3. The key to saving money is to start the design process knowing that it will be modular. If you do that you will save money. If you first do the design and then try to make it fit for modular units it will not save that much money.

4. Part two of saving money is to have as much of it built in the factory as possible. The majority of manufacturers don’t have the best finishes but some will work with you and find better finishes if it is from the same vendor.

5. Yes the modular units are restrictive in size. However for duplexes, apartments, and houses they are big enough and will work with the proper design. They will not work for a ballroom or a $10 million house that has enormous spaces.

As an Architect I believe the majority of my colleagues don’t have a good understanding of how to build modular so it isn’t promoted enough. The general public also only see the basic ugly stock plans which only works on big open lots.

Bigger pockets doesn’t like me to give out my website but if you PM I can send you the link and you can see the house I built. I also have a daily blog on there that shows you the process.

@Ryscha Williams you will need any wall or ceiling that are shared to be at least 1-hour fire rated. Usually an Architect would do this.

However, it is pretty easy for residential. You basically need a 5/8” layer of type X gypsum board. Sometimes you may need two. You can google the national gypsum association, USG, or UL listing for 1-hour rated assemblies. The jurisdiction may request a UL number for the rated assembly. UL stands for underwriters Laboratories and they do all the testing for different types of assemblies. Any of those websites I mentioned will have the UL listing.

Also, if you are splitting the units there may be some requirements for splitting the utilities and entrances. Good Luck.

@Chaithra Kumar I have some experience with modular construction. I built my own home I. Alexandria, VA as a modular home. I think this is the way to go. My construction time was only four months and I could easily have cut that down to two months.

I am currently helping a client with a 20 unit apartment complex in DC. We are in the initial design phase. In order to make your project efficient the modular units have to be built in the factory as much as possible. Site work should be limited and that will depend on the design and finishes.

There will also be parts that have to be constructed on site so there needs to be lots of coordination in both the design and construction phase. The design has to start with modular in mind. Don’t think any design can be turned into a modular unit because it will cost too much money.

There is so much to go over I would be happy to do it over a phone call.

@Matt Anderson I work with a few GC in the area that may be interested. I also know a few people that are subcontractors that due finish work which may be what you need at this point.

BP doesn’t let me post phone numbers or emails so DM me if you are still looking.

@Daniel Brandt my CPA is Jason Osser. He has helped me for the last few years. I have my own architecture business, properties here in the states, and South America and he has been able to make a sense of it all.

Website, http://ossercpa.com/

@Rashad K. I built my own in Alexandria, Virginia as a modular home. The rate was the same as a typical home. The problem was that a lot of banks are not used to a modular home payment schedule. It has nothing to due with the appraisal as it appraises for the same value as a stick built home.

A typical stick built home may have six to ten draw schedules for items such as grading, foundation, rough-in, finish, etc. For a modular home it is basically, site work, modular home delivery, and finishes. The modular company will ask for full payment the morning they arrive at the site and are about to set the house on the foundation. My payment that morning was for $210k. It took some coordination with the GC, the bank, and the modular company to make it work.

The payment schedule is the biggest difference. Be sure that is handled correctly.

Good luck.

@Russell Brazil I should have said two separate properties and not units. 

@Arthur C. @Russell Brazil

There are different types of zones. Some zones allow a two-unit building where each unit is completely separate from each other and an owner does not have to live there. As mentioned the RF-1. The link gives a quick overview. Most of my clients convert a single-family house into two units and sell them. However, I do have a few that have kept them and rent them and they do get a license as rental units. These are two completely separate units with fire-rated ceilings/walls and so on. They should not be sharing utilities because each unit is its own entity and could, in theory, be sold without the other one. 

The other zones, for example, R-2 cannot be subdivided and may only contain an ADU. The ADU has to be owner-occupied and utilities may be split. If they move they can rent it as one single unit and the new tenants can use the cellar as an office space or whatever they want. If the ADU is rented out separately then this would be illegal.

DC is so backed up and understaffed they probably would not notice. The owner would only be called out on this if a neighbor or a tenant complained to DC. Most infractions happen due to a neighbor notifying DC.