All Forum Posts by: Jim Adrian

Not familiar with the ins and outs of a VA loan but are you looking to move into one unit asap? If so, then its your problem not the sellers. Or is it you simply want a vacant building? I would not want the hassle of finding tenants in the winter, esp at Christmas time. I would be inclined to simply not renew leases once purchased.

I did some digging, curiosity got to me as I mainly design masonry buildings vs wood framed. From data published on Tyvek and Typar websites I believe tyvek is more robust product.  BUT each mfr tested differently based on some of the ASTM (dates) used, thus different results.    Remember the UV limit of 4 months max (for Tyvek).  After than, rip it off and do it over at no cost to the Owner. 

Typar

Overview - http://www.typar.com/products/typar-buildingwrap/

Install - http://www.typar.com/assets/downloads/pdf/TYPAR_Weather_Protection_System_Installation_Guide_1.pdf

Tyvek

Overview - http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/construction-materials/building-envelope-systems/articles/technical-documents.html

Install - http://www.dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/products-and-services/construction-materials/building-envelope-systems/documents/K16282-Residential-WRB-Install.pdf

All product mfrs have reps that will come and field inspect on residential with a simple phone call to the company.  Plan on a 20 min process after calling the 800 number and then connected to the local rep.   This is a FREE service the company provides. You can usually get someone on site within a weeks time.

@Chris Jargens

Yes the top pic flashing is wrong.  The windows don't concern me as much and the improper field lap 12" above the window.  Water will drain back behind the wrb! 

@Chris Jargens

Many good systems out there but you really need to look at the product data sheets to compare #'s.  Some products are water resistive barrier (wrb is what I assume you mean)  and some products are just air barriers.    You also need to look at the product installation instructions for the openings.  If the contractor put up the WRB then the windows and then flashed with tap, you probably got a really good install.  Windows are a b-itch to flash.  I have tried this at a seminar with using 5 different mfrs and products. Liquid applied air and moisture barrier is the way to go but not common on homes I feel.   With these products your are looking at perm ratings,  will it allow vapor drive?,  will air pass thru.   These types of barriers are great.  I would be more concerned having continuous insulation on a building to stop thermal bridge.  That's a separate topic and we don't really see this on residential yet.  If using polyiso or extruded polystyrene (exp)  not expanded polystyrene) will give you an air barrier and moisture barrier if the joints are full sealed.  

Most likely contractor will be asking for more money like the others have said but if he did the bait and switch then I would refuse make him show you the other product is equal or better than tyvek. You can install tyvek over the top of the existing wrb typically.  

google "air barrier vs vapor barrier"

http://www.airbarrier.org/

I dont have a clear answer for ya but here is some info. Because the double wide trailer is technically movable, an appraiser may over this look this. The sq footage will not show up on your county assessor / property tax site either, which appraisers use. If it shows up on your assessor site then you would be taxed on the extra 800 sq ft.  Are you zoned or allowed to have a "Accessory Dwelling Unit" (adu)?  Now this could cause you some problems, if you are not. 

@Zimean Vickers

If you don't have any structural failures then it should be savable unless you really really want to tear it down.  Then it becomes a numbers games like others have said.  It seems you are pulling numbers from the sky with no merit (assuming I'm wrong here).  It looks like you are saving the foundation, structural framing, electrical, site demo and prep work and those are big ticket items.  Take some time and make list of repair work that needs to be done to each room.  I would do this in excel so you can add quantities and cost to it.  This will also create your vision or plan of work for this project.   For some rough numbers (and I mean rough)  use $30 per sf  (of floor area)for each room to get new paint and flooring.  Use kitchen and bathroom spaces at $75 per sf of floor area,  Exterior walls and roof use $10 per sf per wall area.  Add in numbers for hvac, plumbing, dumpster rental, utility bills (water and power) etc.  When you get your list complete at 25% contingency.  If you self preform work then these numbers may be less.  You will need to see how these cost work for you area.  You really need to have a contractor come out and look at the place.

Define what makes this uninhabitable?  This can vary widely.  Just gutting the place will save you 25% alone on the structure and demo cost.  If the structural framing is bad / rotten then determine how much of it is.  This will determine if you should tear down the building.   Get a contractor to come out and look at it with you. 

You could use the words "suggested"  or "preferred" instead of "must".  Now in your head you know which ones are a "must" and will not waiver on.  This allows for wiggle room if needed and doesn't come across harsh. I think what you have listed is fair and reasonable but work on the wording.   Less is more some times.

examples:

Favorable Fico credit score > than 620 (Suggested)

No significant criminal history. (Last 3 years)

@Matt Rutter

Get the space cleaned up.  Paint the ceiling black or dark gray to unify the look.  Paint the walls a light color. You want this space to look bright and unified.  New light fixtures perhaps like 2x4.   Install them in a pattern (Unify).  A must is Daylight (color temp of 5000k or 6000k) light bulbs.  The 3000k color temp is not high enough. If you don't like the look of the foundation, then fur out the walls with studs, drywall and insulation.  Create rooms of anything you don't want tenants to have access to.   Laundry stations are good, basic millwork and counter top.   Picture is my unfinished basement after a fresh coat of white paint and daylight bulbs.

Like is said...  research what he did and get the specifics details of their case first before jumping to the extreme conclusion.  I do believe not everyone should be on the that list forever but some do and  some 6 ft under.  Unfortunately once you are on the list your are stuck on it forever now that they changed the laws.

Good perspective.  I just wanted to play devils advocate.