All Forum Posts by: Jim Adrian

Subway tile is very trendy and fail safe, but not my personal choice to use. I think if the kitchen pieces works with each other then it doesn't mater what it is.  ie tile goes with the counters and the cabinets.  Whites, grays, neturals are safe bets. You are always better to get tile on a mesh sheet.  It comes down to how much "wow" factor you are after.   This is one area would I would spend money on because the kitchen will not be remodeled anytime soon.  

Here is a link to Home Depot using their backsplash tile category.  I would stay away from the pebble rocks, based on looks.  I would stay at or under the $10 - 15 per sq ft for tile.  

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Tile-Tile-Backsplashes/Wall/N-5yc1vZbcszZ1z0jipv?Nao=24&Ns=None&storeSelection=3202,3201,3203,3206,2109

Stay away from 3d type tiles.  Way to hard to clean food and dust off of. example:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MSI-Alaska-Gray-Splitface-12-in-x-12-in-x-10mm-Marble-Mesh-Mounted-Mosaic-Tile-ALGRY-SFIL10MM/206741880

Too busy

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MSI-Magica-12-in-x-12-in-x-6mm-Glass-and-Stone-Mesh-Mounted-Mosaic-Tile-SGLS-MAG6MM/206741857

Very uniform and neutral, adds design fare.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/MSI-Honeycomb-Hexagon-12-in-x-12-in-x-10mm-Natural-Marble-Mesh-Mounted-Mosaic-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-HONCOM-2HEX/205307895

I bet you have a 40gal tank. This would happen if all the showers are taken back to back.  You either need to add a second tank or replace it with a larger one.  I believe gas takes longer to heat the water but more cost efficient but don't hold me it.

From google search:

The average American shower uses 17.2 gallons (65.1 liters) and lasts for 8.2 minutes at average flow rate of 2.1 gallons per minute (gpm) (7.9 lpm).

I agree with @Jim K.  The interior picture confirms this the best when looking at the sill.  Vinyl is extremely flexible when heated up.  I would replace the vinyl with proper metal flashing.

You should always get a few quotes for "check and balance".  Labor is typically equal to the product cost then add on profit and overhead to it as a minimum.

Simply write it into the lease and to include you as "an additional insured party".  If they drop insurance or renew you will get a notice from the company.

Just take 2 copies have them sign both.  Scan in the signed one and email it back to them.  Add a line to the lease that states your process on this.

@Angela Smith

The darker the color the more dust and dirt it will show.  Like @Marian Smith Revere Pewter is a good color.   Its a little on the brown/warm gray side. I have this on my rental walls.  If you are stripping the floors and sand down to bare wood then I would stain them.  Add 3 coats of poly over the top.  I prefer satin finish over high gloss, personal choice.  There are floor prepping directions on the website link below.

When I did my floors I went with Early American 230 I believe.  Base trim, doors, window trim in original stain from 1935.

https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains-color-guide/

 The parking spaces, offload area, and the path must be paved.  I would consider a 5' wide (or wider) paved path.  This would allow for 2 way passage of wheelchairs. 

Conditioning the air will remove the humidity, aka air conditioning.   Getting air flow is key to remove any condensation.   Get some portable dehumidifiers and run them.  You can hook a hose up to the tank and run it over to a drain to avoid have to empty the bucket daily.   You will want to get humidity levels to be 40% and lower in the summer.  Winter time we add humidity to the air to reach 30% - 35%.   You can pick up a small thermometer at a big box store that shows humidity for like $10.    

I would preform a walk-thru once you have the unit and photograph the place to establish a benchmark of the conditions.