All Forum Posts by: Sam Leon

Lined up a tenant - screened - lease signed - paid first month rent, last month rent and security deposit.

Wanted to start rental on Jan 4, 2014. I suggested why not Jan 1 and make it easier? Said no will not be able to move until Jan 4.

Now it's Jan 2. Suddenly got a call and said they loaded everything up into the moving fan and is ready NOW to go over now, wants to move in tonight. It's a voice message and I haven't replied yet.

Now the unit is ready. But the rental period doesn't start till Jan 4.

I had previous told them I will meet them on the evening of Jan 3 to give them the keys. Now it's one full day earlier. I had instructed them to switch over electric, I haven't been able to verify that yet. Water is through HOA so it's not an issue.

Will you let them in earlier? Why? Why not?

I have never used Hubzu but there is a property I am interested, all boarded up and no access.

Called the listing agent and he told me the highest bid is 62k, but on Hubzu.com it says 26K being highest. I assume that means he has bids that has not yet been uploaded? He told me it's best to send him the info and he uploads it as it requires a contract.

If you want to do it yourself where do you get the contract? The listing only show "SAMPLE" contracts. Is an agent required? Is there an advantage in using an agent? Seem like with an agent who might hold all offers and upload it once you are mostly in the dark? Do you need a purchase contract prior to placing bids?

As many of you know starting Jan 4, 2014 the lead free mandate goes into effect. No more selling and installing of non lead free pipes and fittings in the potable water system after that day.

This is nation wide EPA and it is different from previous implementations where they first have the manufacturers stop production but give time for the retailers and installers to phase out and switch over, this time it applies to all stops on the supply chain.

So, if you plan to install any leaded fittings, do it before Jan 3, 2014.

Also, if you need some ball valves or drop ear elbows or whatever, cough cough...your local plumbing supply stores...cough cough...are probably trying to get rid of all their leaded inventory...cough cough...and may have those on deep discount...cough cough...because after Jan 4 they can't sell them anymore...cough cough...

Even though you may think potable means faucets, and may not apply to all of the water supply system...it DOES. Shower elbows, dishwasher stops...they all apply. Now, you could have a leaded shower head LOL and of course, your local city water mains are still all heavily leaded.

Here is an interesting article to get info on.

Plumbing and Mechanical article

Ouch.

How long ago did it happen, is it a recent event or ages ago and the structure might have settled?

I had a similar situation, where I replaced an air handler in the attic and I told the tech to get precise measurements because he needs to make sure the handler will fit between the trusses because I don't want any trusses to be notched. Two weeks later he called and said it's done, but two chords in two of my trusses were cut off. Needlessly to say he got a thorough lecture and it was a pain in the butt to get that repaired.

You can't just arbitrarily decide to put in a column three feet over. Have to look at the original plans and the loading to see if the placement of that column is critical or not. I do structural engineering but mostly bridges and highways but same principles as buildings. If at all possible, preserve the existing column and strengthen it, move the duct off to one side and sister the columns on both sides, if it has settled, slowly jack up back to level - slowly here means like 1/8" or 1/4" every few days - look into structural epoxy systems as well.

If you are not sure, consult an engineer.

its just for convenience.

One can use any outlet in the house to charge a device with an adapter. However, most people seem to gravitate to the kitchen counter because it has the right height, and being the center of traffic, no one wants to charge their devices using the outlet in the spare bedroom or the hallway because they can't hear the ding when they have a new text or email. So in my household we have two ultrabooks, two Kindles, three smartphones, one iPad, one iPod, three power banks and all I have on the kitchen island are two duplex outlets and one of them is occasionally used by a rice cooker or a blender, so you have everyone unplugging one adapter and plugging in another, and some adaptors, once plugged in, are in the way of another one.

The code does not deal with how you the consumers or end users use the electrical installations, the code deals with the installations themselves. So whether devices such as computers, phone boosters etc...are considered "small appliances" is not even part of the equation because usages, or unintentional usages has nothing to do with the installations.

What is clear is that the circuit supplying the kitchen walls and counters cannot be split off to power undercabinet lights or kitchen island lights, and cannot be split off to power "any OTHER outlets", the key is the interpretation of "other" here. Splitting off to a JB that's intended for a hard wired wall hung microwave or an exhaust fan would be a violation, USBs not sure.

I spoke to one inspector and his reaction was he would overlook it since its not hurting anything but he might question it if he sees a dedicated one, such as a receptacle with nothing else but 4 USBs.

Anyways, one or two local inspector's opinions may not mean much.

I am going to sue Pottery Barns and Ikea ther catalogues are so heavy I pulled a hamstring handling their mail.

As a landlord about once a year I like to pay a visit to my tenantts and properties around the end of the year.

Basically to talk to the tenant, sort of get some feedback, any issues, anything they like to see added or changed, give them a status report on pending improvement items, and while I am there I give a quick tour of the property and may change a few simple things.

I have a running list of things for each property. May be new washing machine hoses, may be all brand new drawer pulls, or a new microwave...whatever.

So this year I picked up a couple of dozens of USB wall receptacles from an online sale, and I noticed everyone likes to charge their tablets and phones on the kitchen counter. Not the counter space next to the sink, but the other side and on islands. So I decided to just change out most of the existing receptacles near a dry counter space to one of these:

Now, all kitchen counter receptacles have to be GFCI protected so these need to be on a GFCI breakers or they need to be connected downstream on the load side of a GFCI receptacle.

They were a BIG HIT to the tenants! HUGE! I swear if I had given them $50 gift cards they won't have been so appreciative.

AFTER I finished installing them all at my properties I came across on a totally unrelated item which required that I look up some electrical code...

Specifically 210.52B1 and 210.52B2, which states that SABC along kitchen walls counters and floors are to serve small appliances - toasters, coffee machine etc...and can't be used for anything else - not even be used for a desk lamp or under cabinet lights...HOWEVER, now we have USB receptacles built in on these receptacles so even they have small amp draws, technically it's a code violation!

I am debating whether to go back and pull them all off.

I am checking with code reviewers to get some clarity on these USB piggy back outlets if they are classified as "OTHER outlets".

Lesson learned to check code BEFORE or LATER.

Of course you can also do this without a screw driver.

I think my strategy would be different depending on what's buried...good bars or dead bodies?

Homesearch.com is another one. I have watched it for a while and have placed a few bids, haven't won anything yet.