All Forum Posts by: Randy F.

Good point Jon! Every scenario is different. What came to mind when I read the post was the last stair problem I addressed... A split level 4-plex where stairs didnt meet code and I had to rip out and rebuild. In that situation, this couldnt have been done without building up entry landing and to do that door would need to be pulled and header reworked to raise door.

If you go over the top of the existing treads, your bottom step will be too tall and your top step too short. Even if they are still within code for height, they may not be for uniformity. It sound like spindles terminate atop treads? If stairs will be covered and it diesnt matter cosmetically, you can cut offending tread out several inches away from spindles, glue and screw a 6" wide plywood scab under the joint, and install new tread. 3" of the scab will go under existing piece of tread and new tread will sit atop the other 3".

Maybe I'm not understanding the stated problem or what I'm seeing in the pics, but I dont see a grout haze problem. I see a lousy setting and grouting problem, neither of which can be corrected with sulfamic acid.

No, a tile floor demo isnt fun, but neither is living on a bad tile job that you cant keep clean! Francis, please dont be intimidated... A good contractor will contain the mess and have that floor gone on day 1.

I think acid will be a waste of time and money. It appears that the grout, or thinset use as grout, is so uneven that the only fix is to remove it or replace tile. It looks like thinset pushed out in spots upon install, and jounts werent cleaned out before grouting. Its near impossible to end up with grout higher than tile if anything close to proper procedures are followed.

Removing grout is a labor intensive process and when the grout extends onto the tile as it does here, its tough to get it cleaned of without chipping and scratching ceramic tile. Im inclined to agree with the contractors advice to replace it. It could cost a third the pruce of a new tile job just to get the existing tile cleaned up and regrouted, and then the end product will likely not be all that appealing. The joints dont look uniform and although I cant tell from pics, I highly doubt the tile are all level.

If you do decide to have it torn out and replaced, be sure to get pics of recent work and references from the contractors bidding on work.

This is great J!! So appreciate you sharing the time with us!

It will be fun for me as well. My last new construction build was in 1996! Although the process changes little, the costs sure have!

Are you the GC or are you hiring a builder?

If you can post a pic of the floor and closeup of the grout lines that would go a long way for getting good advice. I wouldnt make a decision base on what a couple contractors said unless you know and trust them. Noone enjoys removing grout and there is more money in replacing floor. To make a decision, consider the following:

1. If it had a nice grout job, would a buyer say, "I love the tile"? Does it work with cabinets, countertops, etc?

2. Are the tile set level? Look at the corners and see if some tile are lower or higher than others.

3. If it was set by a hack, he may have not used an appropriate underlayment. Pull a transition or forced air floor register and see what the tile was set on. If its set on particle board or luan or directly on wood subfloor I would demo it and do it right.

4. Is it ceramic or porcelain? If its porcelain Id be more apt to try to save it if all else is good. If its ceramic, there is a much greater chance of chipping and scratching during the removal of grout so Id lean toward replacement.

If all else is good and the only problem with the floor is the grout job, you might run an ad on Craigslist for someone experienced in removing grout. There may be a tile setter out there hungry enough to spend a couple days on their knees removing and regrouting.

Smooth wall or a light orange peel on high end. IMO, knock down is used more on commercial and low to mid range for the simple reason it hides alot of sin and saves finishing costs.

Why isn't your phone number showing, btw?

Just sayin! :c)

On larger rehabs, it is sometimes better to loose some time by NOT sticking to a common sense production approach. While its nice to do all interior demo at the same time, on a larger job where tight margins exist, I will demo the areas with the greatest potential for unforseen problems... Such as the main bath and any areas where there are known deficiencies but depth of problem is unknown.

Ive just seen too many times when mold and rot and shoddy practices have blown up a budget and if everything is demo'd theres no going back and makes revising the plan near impossible. You know what they say about "best laid plans"! Once the big stuff is opened up and no major setbacks found, all else can procede as planned.

Marco, some of us know EVERYTHING! My favorite saying is, "I don't understand all I know about that!" :c)