All Forum Posts by: Justin C.

My personal home started having mouse problems. I used traditional snap traps to no avail. I went to cheap glue traps and caught a dozen or so in high traffic areas. Solved it almost immediately. Wife and kids were not into the whole glue trap thing and i wasnt either honestly. But poison also poisons pets and little kids and has the potential to get into well. All said and done, eliminated the mice and wife and kids haven't looked back. I would encourage the tenant to place glue traps. I buy them 3 for $1.79. Cant beat it. Good luck!

My wife and I were talking about this and both agreed that a full months rent might be a tipping point that if they are late and if they lose that incentive they might just give up and not care as much about the property or you. For us our house rents for $650 per month. We agreed that if we did half off the 12 month but rented the other 11 months for 700 it wouldn't be as drastic of a loss for the tenant if they defaulted but ultimately give us more income per year. And we would only do it for electronic draft tenants. That way there will be no question about receipts of payment. Thoughts?

I like this idea.  Along with "Post marked by the 4th" for local rentals, this would be a great way to solidify timeliness.

Hi Steve, the lip is yellow pine the landing is 3/4 sanded plywood, birch I believe.  I wanted the lip to be able to take a beating for 20 years.  Everything will be painted with bullet proof floor paint that we have.  This is a rental in a C grade neighborhood.  We pulled all the carpets and I personally cleaned the floors of all staples and nails.  Tedious work.

I was also thinking of rod iron and screw tensioners....

thank you!

Originally posted by @Michael Quarles:

1. Take the first step and make it a landing and then a banister is not required. I would still attach a wall mount rail. 
2. Attach the Kewel to the side of the tread, this will save you 5 inches on the tread.

I love the landing idea... I called my code guy and he said a landing has to be 3'x3'.  Very interesting angle though, thanks!  What is a Kewel?

Yup, pay your lawyer to write a scary letter.  That would be my first step for whatever its worth.  That sucks for sure though.  Good luck

We replaced the shoddy work of the previous homeowner and built these lovely steps.  From floor to top of landing is 32.5".  Rental compliance requires me to have a 34" Baluster on the right side of these steps.  My concern is its narrow already and putting a permanent baluster setup is going to make maneuvering furniture around the corner even more difficult.  Is there a good removable setup that is strong enough to maintain the structural integrity?   If not, the only other good and bullet proof option we have come up with is a permanent 2x4 wall with drywall with yellow pine cap.

I am aware that the gap needs to be closed as well.  A wall will solve this problem obviously and I can easily finish this out with sanded plywood.  Everything will be painted eventually.

Thoughts??

ok, going with PoS.  Thanks for everyone's input!  I'm willing to repair a porcelain crack over risking an acrylic crack and water damage.

From all the research I've done, it seams that the top three are as follows:

Cast Iron

Porcelain over Steel

Acrylic

For my situation, I'm renovating in a C grade neighborhood in an older home.  Cast iron is out.  So my options are PoS or Acrylic.  I will also need a surround so would do tiling if PoS or a matching Acrylic surround if I choose an Acrylic tub.  I'm noticing the costs are marginally different so it comes down to durability.  I'm reading that PoS could crack if something is dropped on it, and also could dent but be easily repaired.  Acrylic could also crack but not dent.

Thoughts?

House is in PA.  Pulled the bathtub and surround and am ready to replace.  Just curious about permits.  Is there anything against calling the local municipality and asking?

Thanks in advance