All Forum Posts by: Loren Thomas

We recently bought a new house and moved out of our old house, leaving it vacant. We're having a hard time making the numbers work selling it as is. If we were able to put 10-15k into it (paint, trim, carpet, small outside stuff), the numbers look much better.

We currently have about 25% equity, and haven't been able to find anyone that offers anything over 75% LTV. The time line is minimal.

Can anyone recommend a lender that'll do a small rehab loan?

Mods: Please move this if I've started it in the wrong place.

Hello, I've got a house in Lake Stevens (Snohomish County) that we are moving out of next weekend and will be vacant. I'd like to get it on the market as soon as possible but it needs some minor things and some lipstick. I'm looking for someone that has a little time and money to help get it sold for maximum value. There's 6 figures of meat on the bone. 

If you're interected please PM me and I'll give you details and a bunch of pictures.

This is not accurate in my area. Was there a question or something I missed?

Everything wired AFTER the GFCI, or on the load side of the GFCI, will lose power if the GFCI is tripped, yes.

I have never seen a 120v dryer that wasn't gas. I also don't know what a "Type B" outlet is. Are you trying to get 120v or 240v?

Metal flexible conduit is an acceptable wiring method in my area and per the NEC. Just romex is not. Romex isn't rated for exposed wiring, even in cabinets. 

Hard pipe seems pretty over the top to me without citing some sort of industrial use.

The meter base, cover, and ring belong the the owner of the property. The meter itself and the ring lock are owned by the utility. 

Can you prove it was tampered with by the tenant?

Yep they should. They technically own the meter and also I can't see them turning on the power for you without a way to bill you for the privilege. Capitalism and all...

Hello,

I'd love to give you some decent input there but I just can't. There's too many variables. Pricing is something that just varies beyond what I can provide on the interwebz, especially a large job like that. 

It might be worthwhile to get clamp meter and test the loads being of each circuit in the electrical panel. Any appliances or HVAC equipment will have an ID plate saying how much amperage it is supposed to draw. At least then you'll know if it is just the weather, or if there's a bigger problem. Appliances, heating equipment, water heater, I'd check all of it for proper power consumption.

Sorry Rob, I am not in a position to provide that service. If I were though, the panel would be about $2,000 and a modest hoise would likely be around $10k to rewire.