All Forum Posts by: Loren Thomas

 1.  If you are upgrading from 100A and moving up to 200A, then yes you'll need new wiring that feeds it (and everything that goes along with doing that), unless it's currently over sized. Any branch circuits or feeders that come from the new 200A that were in the 100A should be compatible with the new equipment if planned properly.

2. 100A is probably enough for a small small space. If it's current code compliant then it may be allowable.

In my experience, labor and material were about 50/50. However, I realize now that I wasn't charging enough when I was in business.

I'd love to come to Cali, but I am so much happier not being a self-employed electrician. I Like putting in my time at work and being able to go home and shut my work switch off and be with my family.

Yep, you have it correct. Might be easier to wire nut both the light and fan wires, and then connect them to the switch with a jumper, or pigtail.

1. Yep

2. Yep

3. Hard to say, there's too many variables and unknowns. 

I don't believe there is anything in the NEC regarding what you are talking about. If there is, it's a very recent addition. If there's not, I know the committee wants to put something in it so that it's safely regulated.

I'd use low voltage landscape wire, it's purpose is for lighting. It's very durable, but I don't know its price point compared to other options. 

As far as I know, low voltage lighting ran how you are doing it is a big gray area as far as the electrical industry is concerned. Im certainly not saying you're doing anything wrong, but I would err on the side of caution with the gray area in mind.

 1. I'd put my money on you getting the same but incorrect reading every time.

2. This is hard to answer without know why there is a 3-way there in the first place. Maybe a buried box somewhere? Looks like all 3 screws have wires landed. Not sure of a good place for info, a Google search I'm sure would do well.

3. Neutral wires in many cases have current running through them just like hot wires. Without a ground to regulate off of, testing becomes a crap shoot. More advanced techniques of troubleshooting become required.

You can try using the metal box for the ground. That device is from a time where it was common place to ground the box, but not the device. However, it looks to be added in that location, perhaps a clue to why it's a 3-way. Hard to say when it was added.

There's a lot of factors in play here. The biggest is that there appears to be no ground, this alone will make lead testers go haywire. Second it's a 3 way switch, which can be wired in a lot of different ways depending on the situation and use. Last, sometimes older systems switch the neutrals instead of hot wires.

PS The flathead screws pictured are satan. Especially the ones that hold the device in place, it makes me cringe thinking of the time I've spent trying to back them out after years of paint or rust or dirt or whatever. Or coming across a stripped one. Gah. That switch is many years old, but a testament to a higher quality product than that of its modern equivalent.

Hi Nate. In my area even 2k is pretty low. AFCI breakers that are required in most places now are $45 each... that's adds up really fast. Plus permit costs, plus travel time, plus dealing with the utility company, and lastly, hazard pay.

If everything works fine when it's plugged into another GFI, then yes that's probably what I would do first. It's possible there's a loose connection, maybe take it out of the box and make sure all wire nuts are tight and all wires are landed on screws tightly.

I don't think 100 hours is enough to know what needs to be known. Rather than tackle the whole trade at once, why not educate yourself as individual issues come up?

Could be a faulty GFI if you are plugging it into a different GFI and it works fine. Does it happen intermittently or whenever you try and use it? Typically, a separate GFI in a kitchen implies a different circuit. It's possible that the Keurig, in addition to something else utilizing that circuit at the same time, is too much for the circuit to handle.... at least the GFI thinks so.

Hmmm. There's the code book, but that covers far more than you'd need, and it's a language itself. Home Depot's book is pretty good, I'd probably say that one. They have an all in one book that is awesome as well.

Yes, sorry, that what I meant. 

Federal Pacific is surpassed in unsafe only by Zinsco. I would look into getting the outlets rewired, if the kitchen and bathrooms are done, it shouldn't be a huge expense. Alternatively, you can install GFCIs in all the 2 prong outlet locations, but that cost adds up really fast and some jurisdictions do not consider that a solution. Another question to ask is how much abuse have those outlets have taken, and how much more can they take.

Whatever you do, don't install 3 prong outlets in place of the 2 prong with new wiring.