All Forum Posts by: Andrew S.

Did they happen to capture the video when they scoped?  That would be extremely useful.  As I said, there can be a number of different reasons for the backups.  If it is just a very choppy (rusty) inside of the pipe, it may well be possible to simply descale (hundreds to maybe a couple of thousand dollars, depending on length of the run).  Or, if there are just a few cracks where roots invade the pipe, then you can just have someone come by and "roto-root" the site on a regular basis (once a year should be fine for most situations - this will cost maybe $300-400 each time).  If you have major collapsed sections,, then you have to dig it up and replace (can be thousands to 10's of thousands, depending on the situation).  The re-lining procedure only makes sense in very select cases where the pipe structure is still sound, but the surface is very far gone, or the pipe is under massive tree roots.  It will probably be about half the price of the "full dig".

So, that initial inspection is very important.  That plumber should be able to tell you WHY he thinks the pipe has only 2 years left and exactly WHAT the reason id for his concern.  THEN you can get additional quotes for the work.  Keep in mind that any plumber who will give you an estimate for re-lining the pipe will attach several disclaimers to the quote, including "if we find that the technology is not workable for the particular situation while we attempt the repair, we reserve the right to switch to full replacement".  

I get it, overflowing sewage is extremely unpleasant to deal with, but this is a very significant investment and you want to get it right.  These are the types of expenses that are the most painful because nobody ever sees/appreciates them and they can take many years to amortize.  Obviously, you will do what you feel is best - I'm just trying to provide options.  I have dealt with exactly this problem myself, so I know how it feels.

How do you know that you need to replace the cast iron?  Did someone scope the whole length and throughly inspected it?  Then properly diagnose?

I’m asking because depending on what the issue is, re-lining may or may not be an option.  If you have a bunch of sections where the pipe has collapsed or shifted, you may have no choice but to dig it up. If the pipe is just very rough on the inside (so stuff often gets hung up) but otherwise ok, then maybe a simple descaling process may be all you need.  If you just have lots of roots that are the problem, you may just have to have it cleaned out once a year - much cheaper than digging up the whole sewer.

I’d invest a few hundred bucks first to find out what you really need.  The differences in cost can be enormous.

Well said!

I don’t think anyone is quibbling with your comps or predicted sale price.  What everyone is saying is that your cost assumptions are unrealistic.  
i don’t know who the 8 people are you have asked and who all told you $180 a foot, but I do know that several of the folks who chimed in on this thread are builders who have massive experience and hands-on history, so I know who I would pay attention to.

That 's what I do as well.  It took me about 6 years but I finally reached the point where all of my properties have this color scheme and I only need to store three cans of paint for touchup.  Makes turnovers much easier and cheaper (no trying and failing to match paint; no having to paint whole walls instead of touchups, etc).  

For me, the main problem with the "all the same paint" approach is that I want flat paint for ceilings, semi-gloss for trim and satin for walls to optimize "cleanability" of the surfcaes.  So, even if I had the exact same color, I would have three different cans of paint for each of those surfaces.  Also, I think ALL the same color and All the same sheen does not look attractive.  Finally, you can't really spray anything other than flat paint, so you are stuck with walls and trims that are very hard to keep clean.  

 Coincidental update:  I decided to replace the bathroom flooring in one of the properties I used a non-wax ring to re-seat the toilet about 9 months ago.  My flooring guy had to pull the toilet and was extremely pleased with how clean and easy the toilet lift was.  He was able to just reseat the toilet when he was done with the flooring - used the same hardware.  So, definitely seems to be worth the few dollars extra cost vs. a wax ring.

 I agree: cut the chain, BUT: get the length of the chain right.  Too long and it tends to slip under the flapper, causing the problem you observed.  Too short and you will not get a full flush without holding down the lever for an extended time.  This is what happened last time you shortened it and it is why the tenant went back in and made it longer again.  There is an optimal length between these two scenarios and that is what a correct install is.  Do it right!  In other words, you did not install properly and thus, you don't have much of a claim in my view.

I agree, there are likely regional differences to consider.  In WY, I can understand why you would consider it.  Here in NC, there is very little practical need.

I have four units with fire places.  Three of them are in need of major chimney repairs (re-line, repoint, etc) and I have quotes for over 3K each to fix them.  I decided to go with an electric log in one of those and to simply declare them “unusable” in the two other cases.  In all of these, I installed a “downdraft bubble” or block cold air from infiltrating through the chimney and I have had no issues.  In the interest of full disclosure, I advertise those rentals as having “an unusable fireplace”.  Nobody has complained yet.

In my fourth unit, the fire place is still in great working order, so I do maintain it (clean-out at every turnover - but according to chimney sweep, it gets essentially no use).  Most tenants seem to fire it up once or twice until they realize that it is too much work to start it up and then clean it, and then they never use it again.  I will probably declare this one as “unusable” as the chimney sweep costs around 300 bucks each time.

I have installed a tankless in one of my rentals, but it was driven exclusively by space considerations.  This is a small 3/1 and every square inch is precious.  Old water heater was sitting in the kitchen pantry taking up half of that space.  Replaced it with a tankless system mounted to the outside of the back wall.  So far, no issues after 3 years.  Tenants do like the "endless stream of hot water", but did not notice any real difference in their gas/water bills.  I got the system (installed) for exactly $2000 which I felt was an outstanding deal in 2018.  I can easily get THREE 40 gallon conventional heaters for that amount, so I seriously doubt tankless would EVER break even - even if the tankless lasted 20 years (which I highly doubt, but will gladly take if it does happen).

 I don't see anything wrong with an aggressive stance on tax enforcement.  I pay my fair share of taxes (but not a penny more than I have to!), and I expect everyone else to do the same.  That's how societies are supposed to work.