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All Forum Posts by: Genny Li

Genny Li has started 21 posts and replied 422 times.

Post: Poorly balanced HVAC--critique my plan

Genny LiPosted
  • Baltimore, MD
  • Posts 431
  • Votes 281

The HVAC duct system on my condo was designed horribly.  Here is my plan to address issues.  Please tell me what you would do in my place instead.

LAYOUT:

There is a separate HVAC system for each condo, with the compressor outdoors and the air handler with the only return grille in the great room.

The great room is long and skinny with 2 suites on each side, for 4 suites in all.  There are 2 long trunk ducts that serve the whole condo.  On one side of the great room, you have a single trunk line duct serving Bedroom 1 & Bath 1 from a soffited/bulkheaded duct in the laundry closet off the great room, then the main great room duct next to the return/air hander (also in the laundry closet), and then Bedroom 2 & Bath 2 from the soffitted/bulkheaded duct going through the WIC for suite 2.

There is also a duct that crosses the great room (between the floor joists of the next floor, of course) to supply trunk line 2.  I believe that it may go straight from air handler across in the middle of the great room (because anything else would be stupid), but I haven't checked.  Trunk line 2 goes through soffits/bulkheads in the closets to provide AC to Bedroom 3 and Bathroom 3 and Bedroom 4 and Bathroom 4.  Once again, because these people are geniuses, BOTH the bedrooms have supplies on the ends of the trunk line.  Another soffit/bulkhead goes through off the truck line in bedroom 4 to the kitchen in the great room, but I don't really care about that.

All bedroom vents are 6x10".  I think the bathroom are 6x8"

The ducts are all built out of rigid insulation coated with duct material. This is/was pretty common in applications where you want to minimize sound transfer (like a condo).  But then it gets weird.  All but two of the bedrooms have more of the insulated duct material blocking the entire vent a short distance before the air supply vents, with only a small hole cut out of them--probably 3" by 6" in the bedrooms, and down to about 2x5" in the bathrooms.  This appears to have been done when the ducts were fabricated!  They're basically jerry rigged dampers.

Bedroom 1, which is one of the two closer bedrooms and the one that doesn't have these special permanent "dampers," is super cold most of the time.  It's on the cold side during AC season even with the vent closed.  (This is an AC-dominated climate.)  The bedroom is also the most interior of the bedrooms in the building, being entirely shaded.

Bedroom 4, which is one of the farther bedrooms and the one that doesn't have one of these special "dampers", get particularly hot.  Bedroom 3 is a little hot, while Bedroom 2 is fine.

PLAN:

The most obvious thing to do with any system with no dedicated air returns is to just add them, which is pretty trivial with the way the condo is laid out. No jump vents will be needed.  I will just use the stud bays in 3 of the rooms. Because this is an AC climate, I'll put the return grille high in the bedrooms and low in the main room.  One of the rooms will need an over-the-door through grille, and the Tamarack ones with the cardboard baffles actually work remarkably well.  That's $48 for the grilles for 3 rooms and $70 for the one Tamarak one (oooof), but still not bad.

This alone should drastically help the HVAC distribution, especially if the fan is kept on, and the fan isn't very expensive to run.  However, there is no way that the air handler is happy with the current extremely restricted air flow--while at the same time, the air flow to Bedroom 1 is way too high.  So I currently plan on doing my own redneck baffle for Bedroom 1, reducing the air down to no more than half of what it is now, while also cutting the holes larger in Bedroom 2 (which actually isn't either hot or cold right now) and Bedroom 3 (which is running hot, being on the southwest corner).  If Bedroom 4 doesn't get more air after this, then I can go back to tweaking register settings.  I think I may need to increase the air to through the main great room register and restrict the one in the kitchen to help Bedroom 4, too.

I plan to leave the bathrooms alone for now.  They aren't uncomfortably hot.  But I am planning on linking the fans to a moisture sensor instead of the light in the future, because one of the mirrors has moisture damage since the fan goes out the moment the light does (and so to many other mirrors in the complex), and the fan is also continuously running at other times when it doesn't need to be.  I figure that this may lower overall HVAC usage, but if it doesn't, then it will at least help in removing all excess moisture after a shower!

QUESTION:

Would you do something different in my situation?  What would you do? :D

Originally posted by @Andy Meckel:

If you can't deal with a clogged drain you are in the wrong business.

 If you're running over to your tenants' place for a hairball, you better be charging for concierge rates. 

Post: Vinyl flooring in outdoor small balcony doable?

Genny LiPosted
  • Baltimore, MD
  • Posts 431
  • Votes 281

LVT isn't suitable for outdoor locations. This is a perfect use case for Ikea patio tiles. Seal the gaps and use their wood tiles!

Originally posted by @Joe Splitrock:
Originally posted by @Genny Li:

Really.  Can't make this up.  I had to coach him through changing it over the phone because the closets have linear fluorescents, and he didn't know what to do.

I'm focusing on the day job now, but I had to share.  (Keep in mind that I rent to college students.  They're babies, even though they're all in STEM....)

 I will acknowledge that changing a fluorescent bulb is a little harder than a regular twist out. That being said, the first time I did it, I just looked at it and figured it out. I didn't need to Google, Youtube or phone a friend. 

It is like the old joke, "How many engineers does it take to change a light bulb?" The answer is "None, because according to our calculations the light bulb doesn't need to be changed." There is often a disconnect between how things work on paper versus in the real world...

Funny story, I had a tenant who became a police officer, which was probably the third profession he had tried since being a tenant. They were moving out and I was showing the property to perspective tenants. Fifteen minutes before the showing he texts me a picture of a crumpled up piece of plastic that he found on the sidewalk. He says, "I noticed a suspicious plastic bag with white substance on the sidewalk. Officer is in route to investigate." I tell him it looks like a piece of garbage and I ask if he picked it up to look at it. He says, "No I secured the perimeter". Just for reference, this is a B+ family neighborhood a block from an elementary school. Soccer moms walking dogs is about as exciting as it gets. I have a showing in a few minutes, so having the swat team there is not cool. I show up at the property and police were just leaving. He texts me "it was a candy wrapper". I couldn't contain my sarcasm and I texted back, "I am glad we solved that mystery." He never talked to me again. 

That is definitely the best laugh all day!

Today they had TWO issues.

1) The boys couldn't read their utility bill! They didn't follow instructions when they signed up to set up auto deductions, so they had a renter's deposit of $280. They thought their whole bill was over $400 because they didn't understand the bill or read it right. 

2) A vent worked its way open, making one room super cold and two others hot.  They needed me to tell them to close the vent. 

The HVAC ducts were designed badly and because this was built in the 90s there are no dedicated air return grilles. I didn't have time to install some when I was there over the summer, but I'm going to do it over Christmas, and also hack at the air balance issues so that this doesn't keep happening. I'm going to just use the stud space for air returns in 3 rooms, but I need a Tamarack grille with baffle over the door in the 4th because of the walls.

Originally posted by @Theresa Harris:

It is funny that they are supposed to be technologically savvy, but in all honesty they aren't.  They can't even figure out how to google things. They can use a cell phone and sort of use a computer, but that's about it. As for the door stop through the door, how hard did he open it to do that?

He claimed he didn't even notice it and it must have already been like that. I installed them right before he moved in, so that's not true at allllll 

Post: How to get glue adhesive off hardwood floors

Genny LiPosted
  • Baltimore, MD
  • Posts 431
  • Votes 281
Originally posted by @Jon Collins:

@Genny Li, I ran across a video on youtube and gave Goo Gone a try.  It did the trick.  However it is oily, lol.  Had to wipe it off really well but it worked.  Thanks

 Yep, you can clean easily with any gentle soap. 

Post: Rental house in disrepair with tenants

Genny LiPosted
  • Baltimore, MD
  • Posts 431
  • Votes 281

I'm really worried about 0 to unusable rot in 2 years. What changed? Got a water leak down there?

If it hasn't broken yet, I wouldn't replace it even in my own house, much less a rental. 

Post: How to get glue adhesive off hardwood floors

Genny LiPosted
  • Baltimore, MD
  • Posts 431
  • Votes 281
Originally posted by @Bob H.:
Originally posted by @Genny Li:

Goo gone. 

Right. With major ventilation.

 Goof off needs the ventilation. Goo gone is the oily stuff. 

Post: Where are the Cashflow markets?

Genny LiPosted
  • Baltimore, MD
  • Posts 431
  • Votes 281

Southeast US fourplexes.