All Forum Posts by: Jason Howell
Jason Howell has started 26 posts and replied 105 times.
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal (Another Indy fix upper)

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Originally posted by @John Leavelle:
Acceptable Cash Flow minimums are an individual decision. I do not want anything below $100 per unit. Even with the BRRRR strategy. I will adjust my cash out (cash remaining in equity) to an extent to get above that amount. If I had to leave too much in it might not be a good deal to me.
All Realtors are not equal. They all should be able to provide you a CMA (Comparative Market Analysis). Try to find one experienced dealing with investors (investor friendly). They normally have a better understanding of what you are looking for. Many will have a list of properties not on the MLS. I would not rely solely on a Wholesaler for proper comps. They also can be good experienced investors or inexperienced newbies.
Keep moving forward. You are getting there.
Thanks for the words of encouragement! I'm certainly working hard and putting a lot of time in to get there. It can be a bit overwhelming but I know it's possible. I'm a sponge at the moment and I'm really enjoying the journey. Advice like yours gives me the added confidence, so thank you for your time and insight.
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal (Another Indy fix upper)

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Originally posted by @John Leavelle:
Howdy @Jason Howell
The reason you have infinite CCR is you no longer have any of your own cash in the deal. Yet you still own it and conceivably collecting positive cash flow. Every investors dream. If you still had some cash in it there would be a percentage indicated.
The most important number you need to get right is the ARV. Is the $140K for a 3BR or 2BR? What is the difference between them? What is the current rent? Market rent rates? Rent for 3BR vs 2BR? Rehab estimate for both?
Don’t forget to include the Refinance closing costs/Fees.
Ahhhh infinite cash on cash return, that makes total sense now. I just assumed I had done something wrong. But yes, in a BRRRR, one would hope to get all their cash out ultimately once the refinance happens, so none of my cash would exist within the deal therefor any cashflow is gravy.
If/when I decide I'm going to do a BRRRR, I envision I'll be working directly with an agent/wholesaler to source listings per my own criteria. Will they be able to offer up a more accurate assessment of ARV when needed? I know how to estimate (very roughly) but my estimate at this stage always feels like more of a guess based on a few slivers of information as opposed to something I could bank a deal on.
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal (Another Indy fix upper)

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Originally posted by @Patrick Daniel:
@Jason Howell I don't know if I would say it relies on appreciation as much as it relies on value-add through rehab/sweat equity. That is a form of appreciation, but not in the classical sense, I suppose. Generally in the deals I have seen that are great BRRR opportunities will still leave room from cash-flow on the other end of the refinance, but that is very market dependent.
Right, that's true. A good BRRRR isn't really a good BRRRR if it doesn't cash flow after the refinance. Thank you!
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal (Another Indy fix upper)

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Originally posted by @Patrick Daniel:
The number there make me uncomfortable. There is a lot of dependence on appreciation rather than cash-flow.
The main things I would consider if this was my deal would be: How long do I plan on owning, what exit strategies do I have in the even I need to sell before that?
Agree completely! Having said that... BRRRR is all about forcing appreciation so you can get your money back out when you refinance, right? Does a reliance on appreciation come with the BRRRR territory, in that sense?
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal (Another Indy fix upper)

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Back again in my pursuit of learning how to analyze deals in Indianapolis. This one, upon first blush, really seemed to fall in line with the idea of BRRRR. The neighborhood *seems* great actually, prices in the area are much higher than this... This is also a 2BR with an attic with enough clearance to possibly convert to a 3BR, bringing the home value up once it's rehabbed. Posted for sale at $85k. I'm running numbers on a $65k offer (no clue whether they would even take it, but again, this is for my education more than anything). As you can see, once I run the numbers on this, I get an "Inf%" in ROI during the refinance phase, no clue why.
My initial reaction was that this would fit the BRRRR model, but now I'm not so sure. What do you think?
*This link comes directly from our calculators, based on information input by the member who posted.
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Originally posted by @John Leavelle:
Howdy @Mary Daugherty
To analyze whether a property is a good candidate for the BRRRR strategy you must work backwards from the ARV. The purchase price is the last thing I determine. This is my formula; ARV x 70% - Rehab estimate - Holding costs - Closing costs = Maximum Allowable Offer (MAO) or. Purchase price. Example: Using your numbers.
$310,000 ARV x 70 % = $217,000 (All-in Cost Target)
- $76,950 Rehab estimate = $140,050
- $6,000 Holding costs (my standard estimate) = $134,050
- $7,800 Closing costs (Purchase & Refinance) = $126,250
$126,250 is my MAO.
The primary goal of the BRRRR strategy is to recover all your cash invested to reuse over and over and over again. To meet this objective I use the 70% rule to determine my All-in costs Target. Most conventional lenders will refinance investment properties at 70% - 75% LTV. If I keep my costs within that range I have a good chance of getting my cash back. The secondary goal is to have a cash flowing property.
You have multiple problems with your analysis. The purchase price is way to high for the ARV and the amount of Rehab you are estimating. This makes it virtually impossible to get all your cash out.
With the Refinance loan amount of $236,000 and subsequent P&I payment of $1,340 your Rental Income needs to be closer to $2,360. $1,600 is nowhere close to being enough.
For your Expenses I would raise the amount you withhold for Vacancy to at least 8.34% (one month rent). Additionally, you did not include CapEx. I understand you would have just finished a big Rehab. However, things will not last forever. They will eventually break down and need repair or replaced. You should withhold 5% - 8% for CapEx depending on the age of the property and quality of tenants.
I am assuming you are using cash for the purchase and Rehab of the property since you did not include an acquisition loan.
You mentioned utilities during the Rehab. These are part of your Holding costs. They include (but not limited to) any loan mortgage payments, taxes, insurance, utilities, HOA fees, etc that occurs during the Rehab period and up until the property is fully rented. All items entered into the BRRRR Calculator as expenses (water/sewage, taxes, insurance) will automatically be multiplied times the Rehab period and transferred to the Rehab budget. Those not included (electricity) must be manually added.
What type of property is this? How old? Is there room to increase rents?
Hope this helps.
I love how you wrote up this formula and way of thinking about this backwards. Thank you for sharing such a cohesive strategy!
Post: Paying points up front for a lower interest rate... bad idea?

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Awesome responses, thank you to all who replied!
I really hadn't considered the fact that paying up front is less reasonable when considering the possibility of a refi down the line. I don't expect these properties to appreciate like gang busters in the next 4-5 years... but I suppose anything is possible and if they did, I'll be less incentivized to refinance as a result of paying up front. Something new to consider going forward.
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal (Indianapolis)

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Originally posted by @Ross Denman:
@Jason Howell there are a few things to consider on this home.
1. Taxes. In Indiana, absentee owner properties are taxed at 2% of the assessed value. Your taxes on this property will be $1,725 annually.
2. I always figure property management at 10%. Sure there are outfits that run for less than 10%, but they make it up elsewhere. Property management fees are too slim to run 20% below everybody else.
3. From the pictures, this home doesn't appear to be tall enough to do the loft conversion. I believe that finished square footage has to have at least 7' clearance. You will be looking for taller bungalows for this.
4. $15,000 is not much of a rehab budget and certainly could not include the loft conversion (which will likely run $15k-$30k depending on what you are doing.) My preference is to add a master suite in the loft with a 3/4 bathroom. $15k will likely cover everything else though.
I think that's about it. Seems like there may be possibilities with this property though.
Awesome, thank you so much! I thought $15k might be light on rehab (esp if converting from a 2BR to 3BR). I'm in the bay area where literally anything you ever want to do to a house costs MEGA dollars, so I'm trying to learn how to estimate roughly the costs of basic repairs versus major repairs. Sounds like $15k might be a generally safe bet on houses that look "pretty good"... and obviously upwards from there if adding an additional room.
Property management fee: Yes, 10% was my starting rate there, but I have 4 properties in the area currently and my management company has a portfolio rate of 8% once you reach 3+ properties through them which is a nice little bonus.
I should have caught the property tax difference! I see where I went wrong while pulling numbers from the listing.
Would you mind expanding a little bit on the loft conversion part of your post? 2k+ sq ft seems REALLY high for a 2BR house... I have to imagine that they are including the basement in the square footage number... but that would imply that the basement is finished, right? If that's the case, kind of strange it's not mentioned in the posting. But from what I understand from your comment, it's unlikely that the basement itself has a clearance of 7' or more and that's what would keep this from being converted to a 3BR?
Thank you for your insight!
Post: [Calc Review] Help me analyze this deal (Indianapolis)

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
Background: Up front - working numbers daily to get in the routine of analyzing deals. This is part of that. At this stage, I'm not ready to buy. Having said that, I'm trying to approach this using @David Greene's model of finding 2BR units with 1000+ sq ft in an effort to buy low, convert into a 3BR, then ultimately cash out refinance. This unit in Butler Tarkington area of Indianapolis seems to fit the bill (though that square footage seems unbelievably high... are they including the unfinished basement in the calculation?) Keep in mind at this stage I'm guessing on repair cost and ARV (yes I know they are important. It's just playing with numbers at this stage) The attached report is based on the 2BR numbers, as posted to MLS.
Those of you familiar with Indianapolis, any knee jerk reactions to this? Thanks for all you do!
*This link comes directly from our calculators, based on information input by the member who posted.
Post: Paying points up front for a lower interest rate... bad idea?

- Petaluma, CA
- Posts 106
- Votes 86
I'm about to close on my fourth property and up until now, I have opted to pay whatever points were necessary upfront to lock in the lowest interest rate. It just made sense at the time: Go for the lowest interest rate, especially while rates are particularly low to begin with.
But I'm now realizing that if my goal is to buy and hold for the long term (which it is), it may make more sense to accept an interest rate that's higher while keeping that extra money in my account for future investing...given that cash flow is still positive.
Example: 20% down for a loan of around $66k... IF I chose to pay $1200k for a 30 year loan at 5.1%, how can I work those numbers to see how long I will be paying on the property for that to equal or surpass what I get if I choose to pay $200 for a 30 year loan at 5.5%.
Anyone happen to have a formula you use to determine this on the fly? Or maybe you believe that, all things considered, it rarely makes sense to go one way over the other.
Thanks all!