All Forum Posts by: Jim Adrian

I will echo what @Joe Splitrock said.  Gas stove and water heater.  Electric water heater will need its own 20 amp breaker. 

@Alex Gordon

You don't have any good options for a dishwasher unfortunately. Option 1 is a No Go!  Dishwasher wont pump that far.  Lines will clog and create a big mess.  No clearance behind the stove for pipes.

Option 2 is a better option.  I did something like this at my rental.  You don't want dishwasher more than 3' away from drain source. This is why you always see the dishwasher adjacent to the sink cabinet. This option may work due to the corner wall we cant see in this picture.  Know what's in the wall. This could be a chase / chimney that won't allow pipes to pass thru.  

Option 3 can work but you need place to park it and then they will be tripping over it when its running. 

I would stay away from an 18" wide dishwasher.  They are very uncommon and expensive. One day they will not exist. This will allow the dishwasher door to fully open and not interfere with the stove.

One idea for you is to reconfigure the sink wall cabinets.  Move the sink tot he lift and then put the dishwasher to the right of the sink.  You need 24" wide for dishwasher.  

@Cole Greene

I would look at bumping both levels out.  Depending on the level of finishes you could see $150 per sq ft  cost.  Exterior walls and  roofs are expensive when you look at it at cost per sq ft.   In @Mike Williams case he was around $104 per sf.   I wouldn't be surprised if you saw $200 per sf as small areas are costly looking at it per sq ft cost.

I have the big 4" thick filters that are good for 6 months. I change them which allows me into the unit to see the place.  I also have the system cleaned twice a year under a service contract which will prolong the life of the unit. Tenants wont change the filters.

The Freon is the old R22 which is being phased out rather soon.  Maybe within 2 years I thought I heard.  I would look at heat pumps since you are in the south.  I would bet you have the builder basic model and they don't last as long.  I would look at moving up in series to get a better product.

A waterproofing company.  Google basement waterproofing.  There is a different between dampproofing and waterproofing.  Always best to fight water from the outside before it gets into a building.

@Mitchell Litam

That's concealed grid product that was glued to drywall for sound control.   There should be no screws in the tile if there is a suspension gird.  The are a tongue and grove type product.  Find a closet and remove one from there to see what you have.  The concealed type of tiles get damaged easy and would just remove them all and go from there.

https://www.armstrongceilings.com/residential/en-u...

@Mike Cartier & @Alex Weeks

You can always view codes online for free but without the printing feature.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/index.html/

Egress is covered under section R311.  You may need to review the travel distance as well. 

@Matt Smith

I would buy.  This works deal works for me w/ no money down at $150 monthly cash flow with both rented.  ~22% cash on cash return.  The $500 + $150 = $650 monthly cash flow when you include your savings.  This includes putting $3600 in to reserves for Cap Ex and Repair and maintenance.  If you put more money down the numbers work even better.

 I know! Right!?  I saw that too.  I really think they have the years mixed up between the 2 or something.  I use aluminum storefront windows and other alum products in my industrial projects all the time because the don't corrode.  Very few things will corrode or react with alum, concrete is one for example.  Add a bond breaker and you are good. The vinyl will become brittle (uv break down) over time and break that way.  Because its a plastic it wont rot or corrode.  

Can you get by with vinyl probably, as its used all the time in builder basic houses, but how well do they hold up to the hurricane forces I don't know.   You can always weigh the cost of replacing them several times.