All Forum Posts by: Kurt F.

Bill -- Sol is in Saskatoon, so the IBC wouldn't apply.  But the IBC wouldn't apply anyway -- it'd be the IRC.  Per 401.3, minimum drainage for the first ten feet is 5%, not 10%.  Swales are 2%, not 1%.

Local AHJ's may go a different route than the IRC, but bear in mind that per ADA, a 10% slope is considered a ramp, and would per code require handrails.  Not very likely.

All of this code talk is useless anyway due to Sol's location.

How real is the show?  I'd guess as "real" as all reality TV.

I'd seen this before, and was really hoping Trump had forgotten about it....    ;-)

That's exactly what I was going to post.  I don't see this as a mud jacking project.  Two grand spent on an old, spalled concrete sidewalk?  No thanks.  ;-)

Having written a thesis, albeit in another field, I can say that @Dawn Anastasi is proposing a very ambitious thesis for @Corey Taber .   Sounds like 1000+ pages to me.  Corey, you best be gittin' to the gittin'!  

Why so cruel, Dawn?  :)

As part of this repair, I would add the drain tray WITH drain line as @Roy N.  suggested.

The problem was clearly moisture, that's what laminate looks like when wet -- and, unfortunately, repairing the pieces -- i.e., flattening them out at the edges, etc., doesn't really work all that well.

On the plus side, the material is cheap, and if you can replace the area, you can also let it dry out completely.   Maybe the brother-in-law will assist...  :)    

Beautiful time of the year, drug season.

I have a duplex built in 1900 -- bought it cheap, but not 12,900 cheap -- however, it had updated systems. 

How old is it, and how many units are in it?  I'm trying to image what improvements a big, old apartment building for sale @ $12,900 would NOT need...  

Any photos?

@Sol Bergren These sidewalk issues just suck, don't they? 

I'm wondering what you'd spend on mudjacking it -- may not be worth the bother compared with replacement.

I'd agree with Bill S. and would probably replace it -- then it would actually look new once you're done spending money!  Also, I'd probably pour it right up to the house (maintain expansion joint / sealant) -- the little strip of dirt isn't gaining you much.

 I wouldn't agree with Bill S. on a cross-slope at quite 1 in 10, however.  That's 10%, and for reference, half of that (5%) or even less is plenty for water drainage on soil away from a house  -- but when you're talking about sidewalk, realize that max ADA cross-slope is 2%.  Not that you need to accommodate ADA in SK (!), but cross-sloping at 5 or 10 percent would be pretty noticeable / uncomfortable when walking on it. 

Also, regarding leaving it in place and pouring over it -- this is typically not a great idea.  You need to pour thicker than you might think.  Properly done, you'd need to lay a "separator" course including a rock base, and then pour another full 4" of concrete with proper reinforcing.  From the photo, it doesn't appear that this condition would be a great candidate for that because of factors like the low height of the window sill, as well as the need to match up with existing sidewalks to be left in place.

They make concrete re-surfacers, but your existing slope looks much too great to mess with those.

@David Niles 

Fact like: "You should not paint pressure treated wood, when you do, it seals it up and then rots from the inside out."

And you see this happening "daily and over many years"?

Sorry, but no.