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All Forum Posts by: Dan Marl

Dan Marl has started 14 posts and replied 84 times.

Hello everyone. It's 12/28/21 and I am listing my house for rent (it's empty right now).  I have a person who is going to send me back the rental application and a few interested people to want to see the property.

This is my question. If you were in my position and you find a good candidate, when do you make them start paying rent? It's at the end of the year so I doubt they will move in by 1/1/22. If they ask to move in on 2/1/22, then I would be 1 month out of rent.

Do many of you compromise and start the lease mid-month like 1/15/22?  Or 1/1/22 or 2/1/22? 

Hello Nick. I was in the same boat you were as my house just closed in December 2021. Definitely get your own inspector as they will see more and are more stringent than the builder's inspector. Because they work for you.

I should have gotten an inspection before the drywall was put up but I forgot. That way you make sure all the electrical, plumbing etc are done right.

Optional: get another inspection 1 month before your 1-year warranty is up. That way everything covered by the warranty is fixed. I used the person below for my inspection and he did a good job. He was referred by my real estate agent. 

All Star Realty Inspections
Chris Coaty
7212 McNeil Dr, Ste 204
Austin, TX 78729
Allstarrealtyinspections.com

Originally posted by @Maurice D.:

Hi Dan

Winterize the property.  Dallas doesn't get that cold, but last year it took us by surprise..  exterior garden hose bibs need to be covered etc.   You will need everything on for the inspection,  after than you can set you water heater to vacation mode but leave utilities on.  Yes, no need for internet.  Your bill should be minimal.

Good idea on the exterior garden hose bibs and setting the water heater to vacation mode. thank you

Good news everyone. The builder was able to grind the bottom to flatten the bend on the concrete. As you can see from the picture, they only had to grind the piece of concrete that is 2 feet by 20 feet. No more gaps between the floor and the garage door. Thank you, everyone for your help!

Originally posted by @Bruce Woodruff:

If you have it ground down it will be a very obvious spot. Will you be ok with that? I'd just have them try a thicker weatherstrip like @Jerry Lucker said. It'll work just fine.....that looks like a <1 inch gap?

I am ok with the looks once it is ground out. I rather have that than have snakes, critters, rats, leaves, water during heavy storms, etc coming into the garage. I rather nip the problem at the bud. 


The builder said a weather strip will fall out after 6-12 months as this is what they do previously on other houses. 

Update: The builder says they will grind the concrete to flatten it out. But the closing date is coming up very soon!

Let's say it's not done by the closing date, what recourse do I have? Can I push out the closing date until it's fixed? 

Hello all,

The property is in the Dallas area. 

Thank you all for your advice! Seems like the consensus is to keep the utilities on except for the internet. The builder says they keep the utilities on for 3 days after the date of closing so I'll open new accounts with the utility companies then.

Merry Christmas everyone!

I searched through the forum but couldn't find the answer.

I am going to have an empty house to show to potential renters (it's a new build). What utilities should I open under my name in order to show to renters?

A friend told me it should be electric, gas, water.

Another friend said only electric because if gas and water are turned on, someone could accidentally leave it on and cause damage or run up the bill.

What do you all do? 

Thank you!

Originally posted by @Paul Vail:

The picture isn't too clear -- is that cord wood stacked up to the left of the door?

I think it's some material as the builder is not done building the house. 

Originally posted by @Paul Vail:

Um, for a town road, that kind of crown is great for water runoff.  For a garage, they are feeding you BS.  So if you take a long level (6') and crawl around on the floor in the garage, is their 'drainage pitch' evident all over?  Or roll large marbles or tennis balls in different directions.  Or buy a laser level (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch...) and use a length of white trim with some centimeter or inch marks on it -- set the level in one corner by the door, then walk around to random points in the garage and hold the test stick upright.  Is it all level or did they muck up the pour? 

Also, most newer garage pours in my area leave a ~3cm drop just inside or outside the door threshold so the driveway isn't flush with the garage floor. Hopefully you have that.  If not, what would stop wind-driven rain from coming in under the door if the drive is otherwise flat or worse: pitched toward the door?  Hard to say from the picts how big a gap that is.

What's your recourse if the builder blows you off?  A door seal will last quite a while (like, years), but this will be unsightly from both inside and out.   How do you explain that to a potential buyer?  They  need to grind that down.  Afterward, you can always epoxy-seal the whole garage as an upgrade feature to hide the grind and make things right.

Yes, the garage is 3 cm higher than the driveway (it's like a mini-step). So for them to grind it, they are just grinding a step that is only 2 feet wide by 2 cars long. I will push them to fix because it looks unsightly and you right, I have to think about future buyers.