All Forum Posts by: Taye N.

Hello I will be getting my real estate license in California very soon. My goal is to be able to quickly view properties and submit offers for myself. I don't plan to be a buyer or seller agent for now, since i have a full time job. What should I do or need to do to be able to access the MLS and get a key box for access? What kind of broker should I be looking for to park my license? Are there any fees or other cost I should think about? If they later I decide to list an property I find what should I do? If anyone have any suggestions of brokers I can park my license in California bay area please let me know.

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Can any recommend any good brokers and cpa in east bay? Ones that deals with real estates and short sales, foreclosures etc. Plus loan agent too. Thanks!!

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Oakland, California

What if it is rent control and the person is over 65? Which is the case in Oakland.

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Oakland, California

Roxanne Lembke Im from the bay and looking into multi family. If you find any deals reach out to me.

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Building inspector will not come out unless you have a permit.

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Originally posted by @Monte Misa:

Hi Guys,

Do you guys do the work on your own investment properties or do you hire it out?

I am getting ready to start investing in rehabs and I'd like to be able to do the work myself and get some sweat equity. I don't have any experience though.

I've heard the saying work on your business not in your business. But I think I'd enjoy doing some of the work. Especially in the beginning when I'm taking it slow.

Do you think it is worth the trouble to pick up the skills to be able to do my own work?

If you are starting out and have the skills and time.Yes, the key is time. You can save money doing the work yourself. But if you are running it as a business then you should have a team and think of ways to be more efficient. Is it worth your time to do drywall if you can pay someone 15 dollars an hour? Sure you will save on the cost but it most likely will take longer. The faster you flip the more money you make.

It is cost vs time.. But starting out and your resources are limited then yes do your own work.

I think doing your own work for the first time give you an idea of what it takes and the cost. It will help estimate better and understand the process.

I notice you are near me from Union City, feel free to reach out to me if you have any construction questions.

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For cmu walls tou need to fur the walls out. Basicly build a 2x4 wAll next to it.

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Originally posted by @Todd Fithian:

Julie Marquez sorry to poke my nose into your question, but as for drywall, honestly you might run into a bit of trouble with a dry waller not wanting to mud the walls/ceiling for as cheap as you'd like purely based off the reason that they didn't install it, but there definitely is the exception. One reason I say that is, if you install it with many dips, bumps, holes etc, they will have to come back and do multiple coats of mud, thus taking away from their profit. Once again though, there's definitelyyyy the exception. As for "green board", you always hang a sheet behind kitchen/bath vanities, and in showers, the preferred method is to use Hardi backer or mud float, not drywall. But that's just my opinion. All of our showers are with Hardi backer which is readily available at Lowes, Home Depot etc. Back to drywall though, I never deter anatomy from attempting drywall themselves at some point, because it's SUCH a good lesson and trade to know. But if it's on a large scale, sub it out. Hope that helps

One thing is the Green and Purple board is not allowed in shower or tub area according to the California building code. You can use hardie backer, Glassroc, wonderboard type. But Green and Purple are not allowed.

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Originally posted by @David Algava:

I have a house under contract that has sheathing rot (underneath asbestos siding) due to an improperly built room addition that left exposure to moisture. Inspector took a look at it and said it needed a demolition. It was maybe 50-100sqft of rotted sheathing with possible rot to the frame.

Do you have any ballpark idea of what that would cost to fix?

If you going to touch the Asbestos you going to have to hire a specialty contractor that is trained to remove Asbestos. Asbestos if you going leave it and not damage is safe.

1. I recommend you look up the EPA on lead paint too. Once the Asbestos is removed you can get a better assessment of how much it would cost. I think it a bit pricey for removal. But stucco and framing is not too bad. I hope I gave you an idea on which direction to take.

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@Shelly Herkner contractors licensed at least in Ca. Can only take 1000 max or 2 percent which ever is less. Correct me on this if inam wrong.

Setup a schedule of payment.

1000 depost.

Next payment could be after electrical as been signed off.

Plumbing and mechanical been sign off.

Another payment could be after rough framing is signed off.

Finally make thw last payment after the building final has been sign off and you got a CO

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All Forum Posts by: Taye N.

Taye N. has started 17 posts and replied 250 times.

Post: License parking question

Post: Looking for a RE lawyer in or around Oakland, CA

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Post: Are these support beams necessary?

Post: Ask away any construction related questions.

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Post: Ask away any construction related questions.

Post: Ask away any construction related questions.

Post: Ask away any construction related questions.